Showing posts with label French. Show all posts
Showing posts with label French. Show all posts

Wednesday, November 24, 2010

Personal Styles; Louis Leopold Boilly and Multi-figure Genre Paintings

Thirty-six Faces/Expressions, ?, Louis Leopold Boilly


I have decided that I love the paintings of Louis Leopold Boilly. His paintings are so detailed, without becoming stiff stiff. His subjects are neither over-dramatic nor over-erotic. (That is a terrible explanation for why I like his paintings, my Art History teachers would cringe, but that isn't the point right now.) Anyway, Boilly was a painter who painted in France during the French Revolution. The paintings that I particularly like are his paintings of parties and multi-person events. I think these provide a nice glimpse of what fashion really looked like, considering the fact that no matter what the era, people dress diversely. Some people wear the older styles they are comfortable with, some people stay on the front edge of fashion, and all the rest of us land somewhere in-between.


Meeting of Artists in Isabey's Studio, 1798, Louis Leopold Boilly

The above painting is a really great depiction of men's clothing (not a woman to be seen, actually!). On the left side of the painting, we see a couple of older men, with rather more old-fashioned hairstyles. One of the men looks to be wearing a great-coat (or outer coat), but the other one is obviously wearing a frock-coat. His brown, double-breasted frock-coat has a narrow, curving cutaway, which is very high at center front. It has a very large lapels and a tall collar. His yellow (striped?) waistcoat looks like it buttons down center-front (not double-breasted), with high, symmetrical lapels. Note the low placement of the pockets. His brown breeches have a fall-front and stop just below the knee.

In the middle of the painting, there is a dapper young man who is obviously farther ahead in the fashion game. His frock-coat is a pale green. It has a wider, slightly lower cutaway in the front. The top collar of his coat is narrower than the older gentleman's, and although the lapel is rather obscured, it looks to be slightly smaller and less exaggerated. The young man's breeches are longer - they appear to fasten at the side, which implies that they are knee-breeches and not long pantaloons. Long pantaloons, as far as I have garnered from my research, were worn only for informal occasions until around 1810, after which they saw a rise in popularity. This is probably my favourite look so far. It is very trim and dapper.

Throughout the painting is evidence of varying styles; there is a man in a bright red coat (which I suspect is a short jacket, rather than a long frock-coat), many different colours and shades of coats and waistcoats, coats with different fits and various collars and lapel sizes, etc.


The Arrival of a Stage-coach in the Courtyard of the Messageries, 1803, Louis Leopold Boilly

Above is another example of a wide array of styles. I won't comment in detail on this painting, but I will point out that the figure of a man in the lower right corner of the painting looks to be the exact same man in the Meeting of Artists! The painting looks to be a little romanticized - obviously not all women wore pristine white dresses with sweeping trains (even the little girl in the lower right has an impractically long train). However, it is probably a passing fair representation of everyday life, give or take a few details.

Game of Billiards, 1807, Louis Leopold Boilly

Game of Billiards is my new favourite painting. I love how homey and jovial the atmosphere is, and I really adore the figures in the centre of the painting - it is a little girl hugging her father, and it reminds me of running to hug my dad when he got home from a plane trip! This painting is obviously a set a little later than Meeting of Artists; if you look closely at the collars of the mens' frock coats, you can see how the notch is starting to emerge. According to Norah Waugh in The Cut of Men's Clothes: 1600-1900, the notched collar emerged around 1803 and stuck around until 1850ish. In this painting, however, the notch is still in its baby stages, and I can get a glimpse of how the collars started to merge.

Tuesday, November 23, 2010

Research on Men's Garments, 1795-1815

I haven't decided exactly what year to place Kenny's costume in... I'm a little worried that my tailoring skills are not up to making the large and magnificent rolled collars that were in vogue after 1800, and the separated collar of earlier years is something I'm pretty sure I could tackle. However, I am a big fan of the cut-away fronts evident in frock coats after 1800 (at least I think they are frock coats - I know there's a debate over 'what is a frock coat' out there); coats before that have a very gentle curve toward the back, but not a distinct cut-away at the waist. I'm afraid that the gentle curve might just make Kenny look like a straight skinny post (or maybe Lowly the Worm). Kenny isn't exactly a huge man. Actually, he is distinctly diminutive. As you can see below, we are almost the same size (except for the fact that I am significantly stouter than him). So while a little visual widening wouldn't hurt (a cutaway would help with that), the narrow inverted 'v' shape formed by earlier coats might just slim him down to a wee sliver.



I began my research by looking at paintings from around the dates that I want to reproduce. I had a particularly hard time finding paintings dating close to 1800 exactly, which seems to be a distinct turning point in men's fashion. I don't really need a costume from 1800 anyway, I just use it as a point of reference. We (Kenny and I) haven't quite decided whether to make something from 'before' (mid-late 1790s) or 'after' (1810s). So, I gathered some paintings and fashion plates from a small range of years to try to figure out exactly what we wanted to go for.


Potrait of Bertrand Barere de Vieuzac, 1793-94, by Jean-Louis Laneuville

This first painting is one of my favourites. I think because I just love his colourful cravat! The colourful cravat seems to just be a French thing, though - I haven't found any Englishmen in anything but white cravats. I also love the red waiscoat, which seems to also be a French thing... I can't really tell anything at all about the collar of the frock coat. At first glance it looks like an older style, with the tails curving away from the waist. However, the silhouette of the collar makes it look like the chunky high separated collar typical of the 1790s. If I peer at the picture really closely, a wide lapel is also visible.


Portrait of a Conventionnaire in the Revolution, 1794, by Jean-Francois Sablet

This Portrait of a Conventionnaire is another painting of a French man with a coloured/patterned cravat and a red waistcoat. The prominent outer coat is actually not a frock coat, it is definitely outerwear. However, the frock coat is visible underneath it. It looks to be an older style, with the front edge coming right up to a standing collar, with no lapels. It is interesting to note that the outer coat has large lapels and a separated collar... but the coat beneath it does not. and the waistcoat beneath that, does! The end result looks a little motley, but I don't think that is entirely bad. I kind of like it, actually.


Portrait of the Sculptor Callamard, 1801, Jean-Baptiste-Jacques Augustin


Final picture for the day, this is another Frenchman. His neck-cloth is ridiculous, but the collar of his coat is pretty clearly defined. It is very large, and very stiff! Something must be stiffening it, but I'm not exactly sure what kind of interfacing would have been used. I have read about buckram or the equivalent being used, but I need to investigate that a little more. I also can't see a bit of waistcoat, unless that little white ridge along the opening of his coat is supposed to be the neck edge of his waiscoat. If so, that is an incredibly white waistcoat.


Next post I will put up some paintings by Louis Leopold Boilly which illustrate a lot of different ages and types of men at one time. They provide a glimpse of the variety of fashions and colours which would have been worn at the turn of the century.