tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-56138557619094099962024-02-07T16:57:51.301-08:00My Darling Dear and the RegencyAbigail Dupree-Polstonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02441257702065507010noreply@blogger.comBlogger54125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5613855761909409996.post-1456697664694908312017-12-14T13:54:00.001-08:002017-12-14T13:54:21.775-08:0017th Century... sort of? This picture just floated up in a sudden flurry of 17th century research (I have been reading <i>The Vizard Mask, </i>by Diana Norman, set in the second half of the century).<br />
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That blue-shot-gold bodice is STUNNING. Imagine my dismay when I discovern that the painting isn't actually contemporary to its time, and was instead painted around 1838, by Henri Leys. Having not seen any of these fur-trimmed short jackets with any kind of tailored back, I was super excited for a hot second (before realizing that it was probably designed in the artist's imagination, as he fondly looked back upon a former century.)<br />
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Maybe I make it anyway? Considering.<br />
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<br />Abigail Dupree-Polstonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02441257702065507010noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5613855761909409996.post-55143543847672762942017-07-27T21:04:00.000-07:002017-07-27T21:04:04.082-07:00White Striped Voile Regency Gown <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I finally have a white Regency gown! It has been on my list for a while, and made it to the top in prep for the Jane Austen Festival.<br />
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The fabric for this dress is from <a href="https://www.moodfabrics.com/white-bengal-striped-cotton-voile" target="_blank">Mood Fabrics</a>, and is a lovely sheer cotton. The construction is bib-front, held up with buttons on the shoulders and a tie around the back.<br />
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I do love the sweetheart shape of the front neckline, although it does need some adjustment. I ran the waistband tie all the way through a channel in the front waistband - when I adjust this I will tack the ties down, so that they can't gather the front waistband (which doesn't work so well with these vertical gathers).<br />
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My favourite parts of this dress are, the pooouuuufy sleeves, and the high gathered skirt back. The sleeve pattern is just shy of two feet wide, and I think it could be even poufier. What I would do differently next time... less gathering into the front of the armhole. The bottom edge of the sleeve is gathered with a small twill tape threaded through a channel formed by the hem of the sleeve.<br />
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The hem has a little train, which I also want to repeat on my next gown. One just feels more fancy with a tiny train.<br />
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A couple shots below of the pattern and interior... Because this fabric is fairly fragile and I didn't want to stress it too much with the weight of the gathers at the back, I layered a 1/2" strip of straight grain on the seam. This seems to have done the trick.<br />
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I started with a basic darted draft (how to make this will be blogged separately), and then I taped it together and recut it into the shapes below for this gown.<br />
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The back/base of the bodice (will be) laced in the front (once I get around to putting in the eyelets, for the festival I pinned it directly to my corset. The extension is two layers of linen, with an extra scrap of voile at the center front to stabilize it a bit more. The fabric exterior just runs straight down from the strap. What would I change about this? Extend the lining further down! It kept popping out above my apron straps.<br />
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That's all I've got for now - there are a few edits pending, but I'm looking forward to making this pattern again! With even poufier sleeves!Abigail Dupree-Polstonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02441257702065507010noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5613855761909409996.post-56517704229071863972017-07-25T21:19:00.001-07:002017-07-25T21:19:08.582-07:00Jane Austen Festival! <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is absolutely my favourite picture from the entire festival. <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/MattiOnline" target="_blank">Matti's Millinery & Costumes and Pride in Parasols.</a></td></tr>
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I just realized yesterday that I hadn't blogged about the Jane Austen Festival yet - but I have so many pictures from it! It was a lot of fun, and not as hot as I expected.<br />
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Last time Kenny and I went to this festival was three years ago. I've wanted to go since, but it just never worked out. Turns out, it has gotten more popular over the past few years! The ball and all the workshops were totally booked up when I registered (literally 24hr after registration opened). Fortunately, I put myself on a couple waitlists and was able to get into two workshops: <i>Netting a Reticule </i>with Tim Nealeigh, and <i>I Take Pen in Hand </i>with Brian Allison.<br />
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Both workshops were well worth the pennies - the netting was HARD. But cool. It is super satisfying to learn a challenging new skill. Afterward I enjoyed combing over the construction of Kenny's costume with Mr. Nealeigh, who knows his stuff. Mr. Allison's workshop was almost like an educational lecture + pen-making skills; he shared a lot of great information and history behind quill pens, how they were made, and a few fun historical anecdotes to help all the info stick. Definitely looking forward to next year's workshops, as the ones this year were excellent!<br />
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There were some lovely vendors, and it was fun to see everybody's booths.<br />
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<a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/FlyingHeartMillinery" target="_blank"><br /></a></div>
<a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/FlyingHeartMillinery" target="_blank">Flying Hearts Millinery</a> was there, with a tent full of beautifully crisp white caps. I so wanted to snap one up, but am still waffling about how a cap will look on my (lack of) hair.<br />
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There were also some lovely forms as well as decorated bonnets at <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/VirgilsFineGoods" target="_blank">Virgil's Fine Goods</a> - this black and tan straw poke caught my eye. Next year, I'm snapping up a bonnet! Or I'll learn to make one between now and then. Headwear is on the list.<br />
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<a href="https://www.damesalamode.com/" target="_blank">Dames a la Mode</a> was there, sharing a tent with <a href="https://redthreaded.com/" target="_blank">RedThreaded</a>. She had an array of mourning jewelry in honor of the theme this year (which was mourning, to honor the bicentennial of Jane Austen's death on July 18.) I snagged myself a pair of beautiful deep olive earrings.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I am not acquainted with this lovely lady, but her look was en pointe. </td></tr>
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<a href="http://danielboonetradingpost.com/" target="_blank">Daniel Boone Trading Post</a> had lots of accessories like scissors, glasses, cameos, and shoes. At the Friday Night Twilight shopping event, I picked up a giant kerchief from this tent, which I styled for my working class look on Sunday.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reproduction canes at <a href="http://www.amazondrygoods.com/" target="_blank">Amazon Dry Goods</a>. That one in the middle features a hidden compass and glass vial!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.bingleysteas.com/" target="_blank">Bingley's Teas </a>featured at the festival tea services, and was delicious as ever. Marianne's Wild Abandon was the fave.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/LitttleBits" target="_blank">LBCC</a> was there with a great many beauty and apothecary items. I ALMOST came away with some blush, but decided to ponder on it a little longer. Kind of regretting that, should have picked it up there instead of waiting to pay shipping on it!<br />
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I wore a new white striped voile gown, which will be blogged about later, over my new Bernhardt stays (which held up admirably! They were super comfortable, I didn't really notice them after a while.) </div>
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Lady Caroline Linnington gave a couple of an excellent and informative lectures about mourning customs and attire during the early 19th century - I learned a great many things I had never heard of before. The educational value at this festival was wonderful this year - I am already looking forward to next year's events! </div>
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Of course, my Kenny Dean came with me and carried my basket of whatnot through the hot days. He was dapper and I find him immensely lovely for trooping through the weekend in costume with nary a complaint. (Although he said he would appreciate having buttonholes on his jacket next time - they STILL haven't been completed. This tailcoat is a long-term UFO.)<br />
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Finally - my swag! I came home with a pair of earrings from <a href="https://www.damesalamode.com/" target="_blank">Dames a la Mode</a>, the afore-mentioned head-kerchief from <a href="http://danielboonetradingpost.com/" target="_blank">Daniel Boone</a>, and this lovely busk from <a href="https://redthreaded.com/" target="_blank">RedThreaded</a> (a collab between Redthreaded and Festive Attyre.)<br />
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<br />Abigail Dupree-Polstonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02441257702065507010noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5613855761909409996.post-76615938700201745742017-07-10T21:00:00.001-07:002017-07-10T21:00:12.537-07:00Blog URL change! I've changed the URL to my blog! It is now "humbleandworth.blogspot.com", whereas it was formerly "darlingregency.blogspot.com". Felt the Regency bit was somewhat limiting.<br />
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Let me know if you were unsubscribed! As far as I know, subscriptions should stay the same, the only things that may break are Pinterest links.<br />
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Thanks for popping in and I hope I will continue see you here as I wander farther down this costuming adventure!Abigail Dupree-Polstonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02441257702065507010noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5613855761909409996.post-25665546976402603482017-07-10T20:55:00.000-07:002017-07-10T21:10:34.731-07:00Elasticated Garters - Part 2 - Springs (and it's finished!) <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf7spVzpieYrZGIAEBS63NVE8_kkS0WOvlR95XjgDSZHsi5RVk7zhKgX5Mni6VAAz-MKUQ2HL2XSW2CWRsw7bLdkP_fJaY4FpOLKI4NmXpgr98mD3y5fHayJfW_3jxLuBej8CS7VPgxZEm/s1600/IMG_1699.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="427" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf7spVzpieYrZGIAEBS63NVE8_kkS0WOvlR95XjgDSZHsi5RVk7zhKgX5Mni6VAAz-MKUQ2HL2XSW2CWRsw7bLdkP_fJaY4FpOLKI4NmXpgr98mD3y5fHayJfW_3jxLuBej8CS7VPgxZEm/s640/IMG_1699.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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They're finished! Not a quick and dirty project by any means. But I love them! One of my goals is to invest more in the accessory side of my historical wardrobe; I designed fashion accessories for a living, so why not invest in historical accessories? </div>
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I haven't found a lot of info on how to put together these spring-loaded elasticated items (Sabine's post on her spring-elasticated <a href="http://kleidungum1800.blogspot.cz/search/label/1801%20Corset%20de%20Soie" target="_blank">Corset de Soie</a> is the closest thing - she pointed me in the direction of the springs!) The construction is fairly straightforward, but I learned a few important things along the way. </div>
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Aren't they beauts? The plan is to get a jewelers saw and try to make some custom hooks eventually. But that is $40 down the road, and I have other things to make in the next three days. Because I am thoroughly unprepared for the <a href="http://jasnalouisville.com/" target="_blank">Jane Austen Festival </a>and it starts on Friday. </div>
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CONSTRUCTION</h3>
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This is a semi-tutorial in a million pictures. It's a long post. Just warning you. </div>
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First, to give the garters a little softness (<a href="https://www.pinterest.com/abigael/1790-1820-garters/?eq=garter&etslf=4168" target="_blank">all the garters I looked at</a> seemed somewhat "soft", so I estimate there was some kind of wadding in there) I layered a thick strip of wool coating that I had laying around, onto the center of the garter. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheW-k529uTGRfMxGsahyphenhyphenDPSiO3FmQgCNAySMbqvx3RGQbN8fh8FEGxZ9lTqwOlsEPuGlsfdHI3czZ4oY-PlPqswMvb1UDwezs8jYJjfdOj8yj2BWAMKZ51R09UZBQUnevvTd5BLoefA9Ip/s1600/IMG_2923.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="879" data-original-width="1600" height="350" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheW-k529uTGRfMxGsahyphenhyphenDPSiO3FmQgCNAySMbqvx3RGQbN8fh8FEGxZ9lTqwOlsEPuGlsfdHI3czZ4oY-PlPqswMvb1UDwezs8jYJjfdOj8yj2BWAMKZ51R09UZBQUnevvTd5BLoefA9Ip/s640/IMG_2923.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The raw edges of the embroidered outer fabric were then folded over the edge of the wool, and whipstitched down.</div>
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This part was really satisfying - it was like padstitching through super thick wool so you don't have to worry about your stitches being fine and delicate. Big ol' sloppy stitches that just fly across the length of fabric. </div>
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After whipping the wooly insides to the embroidered outsides, I stitched the flat silk extension onto one end. This is when you stitch on the springs (because otherwise it is a beast to stitch them on after you've gotten half the lining stitched down. I wouldn't know this by experience or anything, obviously, because I do everything right the first time. *ahem*) </div>
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The springs are like noodles and are a big pain, but it doesn't matter if they stick out every which way. The channels that will be stitched later will help straighten them out. Make sure these securing stitches go through all layers of fabric - they will hold a lot of tension when the garters are finished. </div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">WHAT I SHOULD HAVE DONE AT THIS POINT: tied colored threads to the loose end of each spring, so that when the channels were finished I could just pull the threads to guide the springs through each channel. I deeply regret this! Do this if you make these garters or something similar! </span></div>
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Next, the lining is added! I used muslin - would use linen next time for extra grippiness. This is just one long strip, no seam in the middle necessary. I whipped this onto the embroidered section (only went through a couple layers of fabric, not all the way to the outside layer.) </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHDFslwghXtznTcD2BvqD-0e0VZTkcwELVVEZBp-oWpfeqBxhthRNNEN68WP_AhYg-CyEyx074WA-LkRy1j96f9vifnP08fbv1_DPHGWPnG6A8v5MCgHOftKwY5jTRdQNRIBpfAga4XQu8/s1600/IMG_1666.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHDFslwghXtznTcD2BvqD-0e0VZTkcwELVVEZBp-oWpfeqBxhthRNNEN68WP_AhYg-CyEyx074WA-LkRy1j96f9vifnP08fbv1_DPHGWPnG6A8v5MCgHOftKwY5jTRdQNRIBpfAga4XQu8/s640/IMG_1666.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Then I prick-stitched the remainder of the lining to the flat, non-fluffy extender piece. This did go through all layers, which helped stabilize it as this edge is part of a spring casing. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV2qD_rBfSyakVii8TejFBStH1A6xnBrYMqHbv7bDac5GllTxySse9bdOdXfhe4wePn1pIOviZx1ois57fzg-5wAAVnVdA8eZg4K6tWgi5uOfNL0i_sT63pV3hDdWryiOv55KyBX3oi1Vq/s1600/PRICKSTITCH.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV2qD_rBfSyakVii8TejFBStH1A6xnBrYMqHbv7bDac5GllTxySse9bdOdXfhe4wePn1pIOviZx1ois57fzg-5wAAVnVdA8eZg4K6tWgi5uOfNL0i_sT63pV3hDdWryiOv55KyBX3oi1Vq/s640/PRICKSTITCH.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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About an inch or so before the end, I had to stop the prickstitching and fold the lining back, so that I could fold down the end of the extension piece and finish it off. The springs would be stitched to that fold-over seam. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy2OvtuHdkrAHqr28DD_RbNmoqIwcIfuyWVJjWWZiz6kUnyyNJdG5bs28Jy6yxBgiyOcCHq9wFKn2A1OHm8zvrDC4vdwXUxMu-AUGCUmN1zPCuREv-ALzueqI_2l_x6hYWo0DcYGfooP-_/s1600/IMG_1676.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy2OvtuHdkrAHqr28DD_RbNmoqIwcIfuyWVJjWWZiz6kUnyyNJdG5bs28Jy6yxBgiyOcCHq9wFKn2A1OHm8zvrDC4vdwXUxMu-AUGCUmN1zPCuREv-ALzueqI_2l_x6hYWo0DcYGfooP-_/s640/IMG_1676.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This is what it looked like on the outside at that point, with the springs sandwiched inside: </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLR0sDgpzjzpzpr1EwhXNPNkzdPQhwKJ6WPo5QRZ01_wiX7FUquvx2Xq3KPVxXYkdy5NYZbVDKNeKmkBQ2S0p6FGpNT8c2ImrURcx3UyALft1hxJZrvH4IV8rLEXlDyw3GMy3yeBXPpFI-/s1600/IMG_1678.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLR0sDgpzjzpzpr1EwhXNPNkzdPQhwKJ6WPo5QRZ01_wiX7FUquvx2Xq3KPVxXYkdy5NYZbVDKNeKmkBQ2S0p6FGpNT8c2ImrURcx3UyALft1hxJZrvH4IV8rLEXlDyw3GMy3yeBXPpFI-/s640/IMG_1678.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next, the channels were stitched with a simple running stitch. Same as for the lining edges, I left off stitching an inch or so before the end to leave wiggle room to secure the springs. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmcjATEgTtaS1crw-_ChZbMxhQXusQ-CG7-NMIzER3WplhpKSMapgfmOA29A2pV6i9f_3TOr7GhJlj93tSelfA3IIGTq-4QObNS3agVTCeAypH7CRHtwVAngbT3ZPHxyhob97UVOtS_lun/s1600/IMG_1679.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmcjATEgTtaS1crw-_ChZbMxhQXusQ-CG7-NMIzER3WplhpKSMapgfmOA29A2pV6i9f_3TOr7GhJlj93tSelfA3IIGTq-4QObNS3agVTCeAypH7CRHtwVAngbT3ZPHxyhob97UVOtS_lun/s640/IMG_1679.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Then, I started to shimmy the fabric down over the springs. This is when those theoretical threads attached to the springs I mention above would have been useful. REGRETS. It took me forever to gather all that fabric on those tiny springs. (In hindsight, I should have used way less fabric. I didn't realize that I would need to cut my springs so short, and I overestimated.) But, with the help of a couple extra fingers from Kenny, I eventually got the springs all through. It felt like a big win when they popped their little springy heads through the end of the channels. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiBDhiPVth5YBJVWI_V3F3N6OcKBJcd7u11xlp4S4DI99hfZTNeVEqdJx1KinlNkNZ9BIPQyA4Gfz0PEZJMaRxdh0268yUlYfmKu2aFxHctIoWcr16GzmmE0ABCL8wsx7uoCBHhGP-SzLm/s1600/IMG_1682.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiBDhiPVth5YBJVWI_V3F3N6OcKBJcd7u11xlp4S4DI99hfZTNeVEqdJx1KinlNkNZ9BIPQyA4Gfz0PEZJMaRxdh0268yUlYfmKu2aFxHctIoWcr16GzmmE0ABCL8wsx7uoCBHhGP-SzLm/s640/IMG_1682.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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What I would do differently next time (I always have a list of these things, and I write them down so that I actually remember next time!):</div>
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<li>Make the embroidered bits shorter and the springy bits longer. They just ended up feeling a bit disproportionate when compared to extant examples. </li>
<li>Leave more space at one end of the embroidery for a larger hook (as I want to hand-cut more accurate metal hooks and bars for the next pair). </li>
<li>Add those strings to my springs to pull them through the channels! That's a biggie. </li>
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These were originally intended for the Historical Sew Monthly "Circles, Squares, and Rectangles" challenge, so here's the nitty gritty on these bad boys: </div>
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<b>What the item is</b>: garters elasticated with metal springs<br />
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<b>Challenge #4; Circles, Squares, and Rectangles</b>: all the fabric components of this are rectangular. And the springs are circles, really! Lots and lots of circles. <br />
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<b>Fabric</b>: silk sateen, a layer of batiste stabilizing the silk, chunky wool herringbone for the interior, and muslin for the lining. And springs. Noodly, frustrating, magnificent springs.<br />
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<b>Pattern</b>: None. Just eyeballed extant examples and measured my legs to fit.<br />
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<b>Year</b>: 1795-1810 (which is when the extant examples I found were dated by their respective museums.)<br />
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<b>Notions</b>: trouser hook and eye, soon(ish) to be replaced with a handmade hook and bar, hopefully.<br />
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<b>How historically accurate is it?</b> the shape and techniques are accurate, although the wool is not necessarily period-correct and the hook is definitely modern. I'd give it a 90%.<br />
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<b>Hours to complete</b>: around 100hr. I can't believe I spent 100hr sitting and stitching on these. No wonder they took a while to finish! The embroidery was therapeutic, though, and if I made them again I would probably be faster at it, now that I've more practice.<br />
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<b>First worn</b>: for this photoshoot! Hoping to wear it to the Louisville, KY <a href="http://jasnalouisville.com/" target="_blank">Jane Austen Festival</a> in a couple weeks.<br />
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Total cost: all of the fabric was scrap (it only took approx. 48 square inches of fabric), and the hook I already had, so probably just $13 for the <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Wilesco-Flexible-Belts-Steam-Engines/dp/B0000WPAI0" target="_blank">Wilesco</a> springs!<br />
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Abigail Dupree-Polstonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02441257702065507010noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5613855761909409996.post-90164378151160170922017-07-04T10:22:00.000-07:002017-07-04T10:37:25.902-07:00Bernhardt Stays, Round #2, Finished! <div>
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The <a href="http://kleidungum1800.blogspot.com/2013/05/short-stays-studies-schnurleib-studien.html" target="_blank">Bernhardt stays</a> are finally done! The actual making did not take so long as the getting around to making, but I am glad they are finished - now I can move on to making a base pattern for a dress, This weekend I was lucky enough to have my wonderful photographer sister, <a href="http://elizabethannportfolio.com/new-portraits/" target="_blank">Elizabeth Ann</a>, in town! We braved the incredibly muggy Atlanta heat to snap some pictures of the finished stays.<br />
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These stays definitely provide excellent lift and separation. It is important that the straps be snug for this! Because there are no bones along the side-front of the corset, the tension of the strap is what provides any side-breast support. (My straps are actually a bit too long, so I am cheating in the above picture and tugging the strap tight with my opposite arm. You can see in the below-right picture that the straps are tied ALL the way tight against the top edge of the stays. There should be a gap there!) </div>
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Despite taking a while to stitch, these were relatively easy to put together. The elements that took the longest time were the little hand-stitched elements, reenforcing stitches around the corners of the gussets and the eyelets.<br />
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My notes on this as a curvy gal... I have a bust-waist difference of 10", and a waist-hip difference of 12". This pattern still is awesome for this shape, but it means that the hip gussets need to be pretty wide, and need to be carefully sliced exactly to natural waist. Something to keep in mind is that as this pattern is expanded, the length from top CF to top CB expands at a much faster rate than the length around the waist (see illustration below). This suits small sizes and curvy (high bust-waist-hip differentials) shapes. It may not work as well for an apple or rectangle shaped body, because it creates such a distinctive cone shape from waist to top edge.<br />
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The busk is a paint-stirrer (classic DIY busk material) trimmed and sanded to remove all sharp edges. Hoping to get a fancy schmancy one for the next version of these stays.<br />
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They were a bit hastily made - the next pair I make will be handstitched and more carefully fitted, but I needed to just get them finished so that I could move on to a dress! All in all I still like them despite the flaws. I prefer perfectly smooth stays, without wrinkles - I'm not sure that is possible with this pattern (with so few bones) on my fluffy shape, although they may be smoother with a more sturdy fabric. Wrinkles and all, these stays are comfy! I'm looking forward to wearing it through an event to see how they hold up.<br />
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Things I would do differently next time:<br />
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<li>Handstitch the whole thing. This provides better control over gusset insertion - I don't love the ripples caused by my machine stitching through 9 layers of fabric around each gusset. </li>
<li>Select a lining that is as inflexible as the outer fabric. The lining for this sample ended up having a lot more "give" and slight stretchiness, which results in internal wrinkles that you can see through the outer layer. </li>
<li>Add an extra inch of fabric at center back. The gap can actually be about an inch closer than it ended up being in photos, but I'd like just a little more coverage and a little less lacing gap. </li>
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Since this was begun LONG ago as a Historical Sew Fortnightly (2014) challenge, "Under It All", I'll wrap it up with the same deets!<br />
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<b>What the item is</b>: Stays modeled after direction by J. S. Bernhardt, c. 1810-11.<br />
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<b>Challenge #4, Under It All</b>: this fits the challenge because it is a foundation! It goes under any outer clothing of the era.<br />
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<b>Fabric</b>: three layers of plain woven cotton - the top two layers are fairly fine and tight, the inner layer is a slightly looser weave. I thought it was coutil, but was clearly wrong. Next time I will use the same fabric for the interior and exterior, or a tightly woven linen for the interior.<br />
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<b>Pattern</b>: Enlarged from J. S. Bernhardt's sewing manual, which I got from <a href="http://kleidungum1800.blogspot.com/2013/05/short-stays-studies-schnurleib-studien.html" target="_blank">Sabine of Kleidung um 1800</a>.<br />
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<b>Year</b>: 1810-11<br />
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<b>Notions</b>: a length of cord for lacing, and a paint-stirrer for the busk.<br />
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<b>How historically accurate is it?</b> the shapes are quite accurate. The actual stitching and fabric, not so much. I'd give it an 80%.<br />
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<b>Hours to complete</b>: of actual sewing? Probably 50 or so, most of which was occupied with the eyelets and gusset reinforcement.<br />
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<b>First worn</b>: for this photoshoot! Hoping to wear it to the Louisville, KY <a href="http://jasnalouisville.com/" target="_blank">Jane Austen Festival</a> in a couple weeks.<br />
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Abigail Dupree-Polstonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02441257702065507010noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5613855761909409996.post-19037925263568981472017-06-09T15:46:00.002-07:002017-06-09T15:52:03.623-07:00Early 18th c. Elasticated Garters - Part 1 - Embroidery<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<i>...70hr later...</i><br />
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Well, these took a while. And they aren't even assembled, yet! I've been squeezing the embroidery in-between work, which has been busy (good for the self-employed entrepreneur! But bad for said entrepreneur's hobby projects.)<br />
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I put in the last French knot this afternoon, after stitching up the last leaves during a phone call with my Pumm!<br />
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The inspiration for this embroidery came from the below image from Ackermann's Repository. I <i>believe</i> this is from about 1827 (according to the site I found it on, which has since expired; a reverse Google image search has not turned up any info.) It's a bit late for what I'll be wearing it with, but it caught my fancy. (It seemed important to pick a design I really loved in order to actually stick it out for 70+ hours of work.)<br />
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This project began after my Grams gifted me with a couple large boxes of hand-embroidery thread; I couldn't resist doing something with them! With this thread I stitched the stems, flowers, and French knots. For the leaves, I needed something a little less "fuzzy", so I used a slender machine embroidery thread. </div>
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The fabric is a very thin silk satin from t<a href="http://bonnybluebelle.blogspot.com/2014/11/wedding-dress-complete.html" target="_blank">his wedding dress</a> I made a while back, from which I had a few scraps remaining. I reinforced it with cotton batiste for stabilization, basting the two layers together roughly along the lines the garter would be cut. To get an even width for the embroidery swirls, I pulled the image in to Illustrator and spaced it along a 10" rectangle, and then printed it out.</div>
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As you can see in the picture below, I used the print as reference and sketched with pencil the core swirls and stems. I knew that once I had these down, I could just freehand the other elements in thread. </div>
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The stitches used are four; in the order they were stitched: stem stitch for the green stem, lazy daisy stitch (pretttty sure this is a fairly modern stitch, whoops. It is kind of a variation on a chain stitch, though?) for the flowers, satin stitch for the leaves and stem highlight, and French knots for the burgundy flower centers and the taupe dots marching alongside the stem. </div>
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These are going to make such pretty undies! Now I just have to figure out the actual garter assembly and hope that I actually have enough fabric for the other half of each garter. </div>
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<br />Abigail Dupree-Polstonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02441257702065507010noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5613855761909409996.post-8047430547963438382017-04-06T09:31:00.000-07:002017-04-07T19:59:00.625-07:00Garter EmbroideryMy worktable has been drowning under piles of fabric that need to be sorted, so I went ahead and started on a pair of garters in order to more effectively procrastinate tidying it. I used to embroider back when I was a wee one, but it has been a few years(/decade). I forgot how fun it is! It is so soothing. My satin stitching is still a little rough, but I am still pleased as punch at how this is turning out.<br />
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<br />Abigail Dupree-Polstonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02441257702065507010noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5613855761909409996.post-71805533657590459582017-03-24T16:59:00.001-07:002017-03-24T16:59:09.311-07:00Bernhardt Stays, Round #2, part 2In my last post, I tried on my 3-year-old mockup of the Bernhardt stays, and they did NOT quite fit. <div>
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I had originally planned on just altering my old pattern to accommodate the new fit issues. However, the more I thought about it, the more I thought that just holistically scaling up the pattern might be a better plan. </div>
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So, I remeasured myself. 25.2 cm from front of shoulder to center back, measured as indicated in Sabine's original post. Divided by 7, this turns into 3.6cm. Last time, I enlarged to 3.25cm. The difference seemed so small that I wasn't sure that I would get much of a change in the overall pattern size, but I was definitely wrong! </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWMdT2oNNNaDKuSvnHSQ8gQgofbs1LDr4R_Xiz7pKhOStZcklwanRSBCNfXuEWG7wHVGyTCTwQtFOr5_N0JYt2MMPYplGaWJpy9G_yLo-6_wUzCgvyXS1-aEsKl1k3LumUWWVfS8xlE0UO/s1600/IMG_1875.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWMdT2oNNNaDKuSvnHSQ8gQgofbs1LDr4R_Xiz7pKhOStZcklwanRSBCNfXuEWG7wHVGyTCTwQtFOr5_N0JYt2MMPYplGaWJpy9G_yLo-6_wUzCgvyXS1-aEsKl1k3LumUWWVfS8xlE0UO/s400/IMG_1875.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">3.25cm pattern laid over 3.6cm pattern</td></tr>
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This actually made me a bit nervous that the new pattern would be too large, but I just cut right against the top and bottom edges (removing any seam allowance to reduce overall body length), and stitched it up. </div>
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It wasn't too big! This really is an excellent pattern, it scales so well. The underarm (which gains the most length via the size increase) fit pretty much exactly - any bigger and it would have been too big. The bust gussets were almost PERFECT this time around. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqSAIG3RaXgU0I1EntlA05nG-Vj8gjekhptzusbyHjP11ggc4shu1NieKA6V10etUjJLJoScjC4wx81uH68HQ9kxz3lRaFk3OJecUnJIZj5Nw6fB75oPQMotykeYAq0tFw73D0Oi_WM44M/s1600/IMG_1868.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqSAIG3RaXgU0I1EntlA05nG-Vj8gjekhptzusbyHjP11ggc4shu1NieKA6V10etUjJLJoScjC4wx81uH68HQ9kxz3lRaFk3OJecUnJIZj5Nw6fB75oPQMotykeYAq0tFw73D0Oi_WM44M/s640/IMG_1868.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This fit was overall much more comfortable than the old mockup. Look, no wrinkles! And it didn't feel too tight.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjFvB4kYF5NdcCog66DDq7_38dyPpFTO6noGDgmdNKOQAXQZ6UP1z7hWg_flKwY0cYD6r2Ug_bp0bGaU9UZ918b4wJx95SH34SCFFQ68_yrbWQTlv-cY_R4L1Xx0EyHYZjFEnzlzewoHPH/s1600/IMG_1869.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjFvB4kYF5NdcCog66DDq7_38dyPpFTO6noGDgmdNKOQAXQZ6UP1z7hWg_flKwY0cYD6r2Ug_bp0bGaU9UZ918b4wJx95SH34SCFFQ68_yrbWQTlv-cY_R4L1Xx0EyHYZjFEnzlzewoHPH/s640/IMG_1869.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lift and separate! </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGdOPHFkuhyphenhyphentkktb3eF1vA-oT2gYyOsOR0lHMglAGWZD6s-gYUEHv54Hz7cRlF2lnCW29r2_8JWxtBBkl9n3JZBBaSpX0youpj6LNjp_5i8WPBQTfmKxyT_4mmXrdujBrHrze2m9VAOoM6/s1600/IMG_1872.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGdOPHFkuhyphenhyphentkktb3eF1vA-oT2gYyOsOR0lHMglAGWZD6s-gYUEHv54Hz7cRlF2lnCW29r2_8JWxtBBkl9n3JZBBaSpX0youpj6LNjp_5i8WPBQTfmKxyT_4mmXrdujBrHrze2m9VAOoM6/s640/IMG_1872.JPG" width="636" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The shoulder straps aren't placed accurately, as I had to pin them onto myself while wearing the stays. Still torn between crossed straps vs. straight...</td></tr>
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I'm going to make just a few adjustments (moving the back gusset 1/4" from its neighbor, adding an extra 1" to each side of the back) but this is pretty satisfactory! Moving on to the final stays from here. </div>
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<i>Coming soon</i>: embroidered garters! With springs - my <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000WPAI0/ref=ya_st_dp_summary">Wilesco Z80</a> springs are on the way! </div>
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Abigail Dupree-Polstonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02441257702065507010noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5613855761909409996.post-26157455047461689432017-03-17T16:15:00.003-07:002017-03-17T20:42:33.499-07:00Bernhard Stays, Round #2, part 1Remember how I started the <a href="http://kleidungum1800.blogspot.com/2013/05/short-stays-studies-schnurleib-studien.html">J. S. Bernhardt stays</a>, three years ago (how has it been three years?!!)? And then my dog ate them and I gave up?<br />
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Well, they are back on the table. I recently dug the beginnings of my former stays out of my scrapbox, where I had chucked them in discouragement after finding that Walter had nommed them. After a bit of smoothing and cleaning, I discovered that the body (which I had started the finer details on) was actually intact - he had done the most damage on the gussets. Hooray!<br />
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However. I know I have gained probably 15-20lb in the past three years (also, how did that happen?!) So I thought I should try the mockup on to see how it fits now. Good thing I did! My bra size was 34D then - now it is 34DDD. And my whole body is somewhat wider than before (the lacing gap is 3" wider than in 2014).<br />
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So goes life. But I am a big fan of embracing my body (although it is a bit disheartening to compare the EXACT same mockup on myself over time and pounds :| ) AND the advantage of my new size means that I can experiment with this design on an even curvier shape! The technical nerd in me is cool with that.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW8NjGaSDXjxLg8bfvDSSkyEAZ_rHl_fUnaJDHEoe8SNLcSUP-76XrM2fXuBFS9jyHAp272b91AKxVl0s2lR_JxIFzwgVz13K0ccvJsj9ewzKVWUSgiYNnirIJkuGClEhafxtxB72iKZ-9/s1600/IMG_1763.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW8NjGaSDXjxLg8bfvDSSkyEAZ_rHl_fUnaJDHEoe8SNLcSUP-76XrM2fXuBFS9jyHAp272b91AKxVl0s2lR_JxIFzwgVz13K0ccvJsj9ewzKVWUSgiYNnirIJkuGClEhafxtxB72iKZ-9/s400/IMG_1763.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What happens when you try to put on your mockup alone.<br />
Also pictured: when you don't consider your footwear choices before taking photos.</td></tr>
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First things first: those bust gussets. Way too small. As soon as I put on the stays, I felt unpleasantly squished, not comfortably embraced. Even after scooping and lifting (a life skill for humans with breasts), I felt squashed. And simultaneously precariously plopped on top of those leetle gussets. Sooo... chopped right through one side to compare. This revealed that the gusset needs to be 1.5x wider than before, and about 0.5" longer. Freeedooommmmm for the breast! Below you can see a comparison of the chopped side (on your left), and the old non-chopped side (your right). The old gusset does create a nice "shelf" effect, but it is not comfortable. I am going to compromise with slightly less shelf and more comfort.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJaXtocSY3VYSNuUg4H9Zj1cE59JNbiTe_eMmnVkF_QqHIa3QodBr5U3JsFLa25DFrGfqmteP6UDpzFcvPPbE_41kq8mHnGKErn8HWN07sTI5PP_qjYh1Ql9zHKF93kzXtP_bGFCXQZyKI/s1600/IMG_1766-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJaXtocSY3VYSNuUg4H9Zj1cE59JNbiTe_eMmnVkF_QqHIa3QodBr5U3JsFLa25DFrGfqmteP6UDpzFcvPPbE_41kq8mHnGKErn8HWN07sTI5PP_qjYh1Ql9zHKF93kzXtP_bGFCXQZyKI/s400/IMG_1766-2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old gusset = period-appropriate shelf, but discomfort.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOEBZAt5W0_AuWeJ6MDUw1wUWzCpMNuadHuvjg3dTSOoMlfenoIagL1LV8NpuA4qX0lzRqv7YOh67qND4Ehg2QeQV65Uk7RwbVmuc0minvQz72R2wwFf4lRg_sOH4go8mdup1PiiP7uoV6/s1600/IMG_1768-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOEBZAt5W0_AuWeJ6MDUw1wUWzCpMNuadHuvjg3dTSOoMlfenoIagL1LV8NpuA4qX0lzRqv7YOh67qND4Ehg2QeQV65Uk7RwbVmuc0minvQz72R2wwFf4lRg_sOH4go8mdup1PiiP7uoV6/s400/IMG_1768-2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chopped gusset = freedom and a renewed zest for life.</td></tr>
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One new thing I also discovered, per breast size increase, was an unattractive side-boob bulge. This will be slightly more held in check when the straps criss-cross in the back, but I don't think that will entirely cure it. I am going to make the bet that moving the gussets outward by 0.5" will help mollify this.<br />
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Aaaand, now we come to the back, which is a bit of a debacle. See that lacing gap? Huge. Which means the hip gussets are shifted too far over to the sides of my body. Wrinkles galore. Also, my swayback does not help this. Mulling over how to adjust this and get a nice smooth back. Any ideas?<br />
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The next question is... power through another mockup or try going straight to fabric? I'm tempted to go straight to fabric. But that back is clearly unbeautiful, and I would probably regret hand stitching all those eyelets into an ill-fitting back. This is the decision of the day.<br />
<br />Abigail Dupree-Polstonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02441257702065507010noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5613855761909409996.post-21764760417961767312017-03-16T12:57:00.000-07:002017-07-05T12:14:30.993-07:001790 - 1810 ShiftThis past weekend's project was the innermost layer of an outfit - a shift! My old shift was made out of a rather heavy, draping "linen look" fabric from Jo-Ann's tennish years ago, sooo... time for a new one.<br />
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Inspiration? It is a pretty basic shift, like any number of shifts from 1770-1810. If I had to pick a particular reference I would offer this one: </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shift, American, early 19th century, MFA, 99.664.51</td></tr>
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Mine has no sleeve ruffles, partly because I don't have fine enough fabric (the fabric used for ruffles was often finer than the linen used for the body of shifts or shirts), and partly because I wasn't sure I would like the look (would they show under long sleeves? Would they look cluttered under sheer puff sleeves?) and partly because I just wanted to make a quick and basic project that was easy from start to finish. The sleeves are also slightly shorter. But the body is cut as one (without side gores), as shown in the MFA example. </div>
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All seams are felled with a blind stitch, and the hems are stitched with the same. </div>
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The drawcord channel is simply the neckline edge folded twice. At center front, I cut a slit and finished the edge with thread and a buttonhole stitch. Slightly below that, I embroidered my initials (the "D" ended up leaving a little more room for imagination than preferable, but not enough to rip out and restitch.) </div>
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What propelled me to make this shift this past weekend was actually <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/HistoricalSewFortnightly/permalink/772482889569049/?comment_id=782873878529950&notif_t=group_comment_reply&notif_id=1489260793610421">this little conversation</a> in the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/HistoricalSewFortnightly/">Historical Sew Fortnightly</a> Facebook group, about how to flat fell a gusset without puckers. I made a line-drawn step-by-step guide, which may not be less confusing than any other explanation... but it is one more something that might make sense to somebody! </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Exterior gusset construction.Side body seam and the sleeve seam in felled opposite directions just for aesthetic appeal.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Interior gusset construction - note the slightly elongated shape of the corners where they meet the side body and sleeve.</td></tr>
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While I was hoping to enter a chemisette for the HSF Firsts & Lasts challenge, that probably won't be finished for a while yet, so this will be my entry (even though this is already way past the deadline!) These are the deets: </div>
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<i>The Challenge: </i>Firsts & Lasts - this is the first garment to be worn on the body. Unless drawers are involved, in which case those might go on first. But I don't wear drawers with my Regency kits, so this counts as the first item put on! </div>
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<i>Material: </i><a href="https://www.fabric.com/buy/ff-366/kaufman-handkerchief-linen-white">This</a> cotton/linen blend (I was in a hurry when I ordered and missed that the fabric was a blend, but I have it now so it will have to be used!)</div>
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<i>Pattern: </i>My own, based off of extant shifts. </div>
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<i>Year: </i>1780-1810</div>
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<i>Notions: </i>Cotton string, stolen from a length of drapery pleating tape I had in my trim box. </div>
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<i>How historically accurate is it?</i> The fabric is not quite right, as it's a blend. The thread is poly and the primary construction seams were machine-stitched. However, the pattern is fairly authentic, and the secondary seaming (flat-felling) and hems are hand-stitched. I'd give this a 75%. </div>
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<i>Hours to complete: </i>Around 8, and most of that was felling the seams and hemming. Actual pattern, cutting, and basic construction probably took 2-3 hours. </div>
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<i>First worn: </i>Haven't worn it yet! </div>
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<i>Total cost: </i>About $20 for the fabric, as I already thread and string (which would probably add up to around $4-5). So a decent estimate for this would be $25</div>
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Pictures on a body coming soon! </div>
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Abigail Dupree-Polstonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02441257702065507010noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5613855761909409996.post-68170201166019810852017-02-28T16:30:00.002-08:002017-02-28T16:30:30.250-08:00Zippable Regency GownThis week, I finished a commission inspired by <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/81212?img=0">this</a> 1810 gown from the MET:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiFh_x4qfgjpk3Q1cu_M9g3DmmZeFrvPXspGdnfPrGXgfZZGUBgY97u_rRhyeVe9BVQ2XwWyjli7Htv_XH7D_4DYXKnR-jsgRT1LSBWtpJDdrXKpLoQZFQje1iDBa_rgNpawoW9GlnhFs3/s1600/1bf6645634e092b2fa8f0b62ffcc9ecc.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiFh_x4qfgjpk3Q1cu_M9g3DmmZeFrvPXspGdnfPrGXgfZZGUBgY97u_rRhyeVe9BVQ2XwWyjli7Htv_XH7D_4DYXKnR-jsgRT1LSBWtpJDdrXKpLoQZFQje1iDBa_rgNpawoW9GlnhFs3/s400/1bf6645634e092b2fa8f0b62ffcc9ecc.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/81212?img=0">Cotton Dress, American, c. 1810-15, MET, 1999.224</a></td></tr>
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The fabric of my dress is a lightweight, embroidered, cotton voile. I purchased mine from a shop in Atlanta, but it is almost identical to <a href="http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/6103.aspx">this fabric offered by Burnley and Trowbridge</a>. The customer I was working with most definitely did not want a white dress, but almost all the voile fabric I found with any kind of interesting embroidery or stripe detail was to be found in white! Solution: dye it. The last time I dyed any signifiant length of fabric was in college, but it was pretty successful then, so I decided to dye the white fabric to the dove grey that my customer wanted. The color selected was one of <a href="http://mist%20gray%2C/">Dharma's procion dyes</a>, Mist Gray. It produced a soft lavender gray. There are some great dye tutorials out there, so I won't add a tutorial, but here is a snapshot of the process!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1. The necessary stuff! 2. Dye mixed and added to tub. 3. Stirred.<br />
4. Salt added! 5. Stirred. 6. Calsolene oil added! Just a smidge.<br />
7. Fabric dumped in. 8. Soda Ash added (CAREFULLY). 9. Stir. And stir and stir. </td></tr>
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I didn't take many in-progress photos (it is so hard to remember to do this), but I did photograph the finished garment. It is a floor-length gown with short puff sleeves, and removable long sleeves. The lining extends to the body and skirt (the sleeves are unlined).<br />
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The lower sleeves attach to the band of the short puff sleeves with hooks and hand-stitched eyes (effectively loose bar tacks.) I interfaced the interior of the puff sleeve band ONLY, cutting it off at the seam allowances, so it was pretty sturdy for the stitched eyes. I handmade the eyeloops because when the lower sleeves are removed, that area would rub against skin, and I didn't want stiff metal eyes to aggravate the soft skin inside the arm. For the undersleeves, I interfaced about 3/4" from the top, and finished the edge with a 5/8" wide bias binding, stitched to the interior of the sleeve. This rendered it sturdy enough for hooks.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Since there is a little variation in the placement of each hook and eye on <br />
each sleeve, I embroidered them to indicate which is right and left.</td></tr>
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This customer is a dancer, and wanted to make sure she could lift her arms over her head, so I added in a little fish gusset under the arms. A little extra flexibility goes a long way!<br />
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The sweet little puffed sleeves are adorable, in my opinion. When the sleeves are removed, the silhouette feels so different! Removable sleeves = two dresses in one!<br />
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My favourite part of this dress is actually... the closure in the back! While I love making historically authentic garments, I love my customers wearing them even more, and this customer wanted to be able to easily get into and out of her dress all by herself. So I used an invisible zipper and some covered buttons left over from a wedding gown I made a while back, and created a lapped closure. In order to keep the lapped bit shut, I added a couple tiny hooks and eyes.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This shows a tiny glimpse of the skirt lining, pleated <br />with much larger and less tedious pleats than the exterior</td></tr>
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Below are some obligatory guts pictures. The gathered outer bodice was lined with a fitted lining. The exterior fabric is gathered at center front and totally adjustable at the top edge with a narrow striped drawcord. The sleeve edges are whipped - I debated binding them, but felt it would add a lot of bulk, especially in an area that has a bit of extra fabric anyway because of the gusset. At the top of the shoulder are tiny snap straps to hold a bra strap, since this dress would not be worn with stays.<br />
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And that's it! This was a super fun project, and the customer was awesome to work with. We met a total of three times: first to measure and talk design details/fabric, second to fit the muslin and confirm the color via dyed swatches, and third to fit the actual dress in its semi-finished state (confirming things like hem lengths, how the fit feels in final fabric, etc.) First costume of 2017, finished!<br />
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Abigail Dupree-Polstonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02441257702065507010noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5613855761909409996.post-91685267338193602882016-08-03T16:06:00.002-07:002016-08-03T17:24:03.517-07:00Gallows, Bretelles, and Braces<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6qQD6dxAQjH7nOEyzDWYCZvzRDhGVoo-A-Gr1gF8ZRjKTxP1hAIERZlUYj3g8GDXXM8dupNUSJxJMYUOED-AeQqvjfJqi2I12uMvoS_7caGWZGcw_70iwNBv450GJGK8U5_3zmkcWWGHB/s1600/SC7870.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6qQD6dxAQjH7nOEyzDWYCZvzRDhGVoo-A-Gr1gF8ZRjKTxP1hAIERZlUYj3g8GDXXM8dupNUSJxJMYUOED-AeQqvjfJqi2I12uMvoS_7caGWZGcw_70iwNBv450GJGK8U5_3zmkcWWGHB/s400/SC7870.jpg" style="transform: rotate(180deg);" title="" width="206" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/suspender-or-brace-one-of-a-pair-46473">Suspender or brace, French or English, early 19th century, Museum of Fine Arts Boston, 38.1223a</a></td></tr>
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In order to assist in keeping my dear Kenny Dean's pants aloft, for he is indeed a slim lad, I have set out to make him a pair of braces. Ideally braces authentic to 1800-1810.<br />
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Braces seem to have really become a thing after the first quarter of the 19th century. In the 1820s, a manufacturer by the name of Albert Thurston began mass-producing braces in London. Patents were filed by manufacturers as business on this accessory began to pick up. The history of braces past that point is fairly easy to locate, but I am trying to pin down the form that braces took before that decade.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGCD7s2ons7GlC-SL5FtuIiGf-p5iCDbajVSSi3SJMvA1h1I6t0pkfifmUwnkpkuFNeZpL4Kwt6K8B0Y1yB7EtIKGvI19xDLSvECGgtssBQa1YDsaK7ByxOdG2HsQ-MLs5Klmm3MuEKuXF/s1600/casino_royale2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGCD7s2ons7GlC-SL5FtuIiGf-p5iCDbajVSSi3SJMvA1h1I6t0pkfifmUwnkpkuFNeZpL4Kwt6K8B0Y1yB7EtIKGvI19xDLSvECGgtssBQa1YDsaK7ByxOdG2HsQ-MLs5Klmm3MuEKuXF/s400/casino_royale2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I was unable to find an image of the eminent Albert Thurston,<br />
so here is a picture of Daniel Craig in Thurston suspenders, instead.<br />
Because a little Daniel Craig never ruined anybody's day.</td></tr>
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Trawling through online museum collections yields a number of suspenderish items catalogued as, "early 19th century," or the still more vague, "19th century." However, a couple of prints popped up, the most interesting of which is the following, ca. 1790s (found via <a href="http://ranawayfromthesubscriber.blogspot.com/2012/05/suspenders-for-historical-or.html">Ran Away From the Subscriber</a>). The signage in this print advertises, "nete Gallows for Breaches," (gallows are another term for braces). The bright red braces advertised can be seen hanging on a line inside the shop. Interestingly, these are criss-crossed braces, and I haven't been able to find any museum pieces catalogued under this time period that are attached like that.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjikYhkpAoseIyleLvcApu1f1YhOucs_9hZb5gxVEIs-vpS1IhDHfgagbX9p74Elrzm3GxxBFnz952FfjfawxnvblMl75bpCXB51qDhoymXX8qne_mASROmV1LHKxYysyMnRFsEMMp4nxmN/s1600/Gallows.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjikYhkpAoseIyleLvcApu1f1YhOucs_9hZb5gxVEIs-vpS1IhDHfgagbX9p74Elrzm3GxxBFnz952FfjfawxnvblMl75bpCXB51qDhoymXX8qne_mASROmV1LHKxYysyMnRFsEMMp4nxmN/s400/Gallows.jpg" width="292" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The British Museum, 1935, 0522.1.204</td></tr>
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Having established, if somewhat tenuously, that braces were a solid thing in the 1790s, I cast about for some extant pieces.<br />
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The following pairs, located at the MFA, utilize the spring-elastic system seen on garters of around the same period. I am puzzled, however, as to how the braces were kept on at the other end - there is no buttonhole or clip! Is something hidden under there? Was one end tacked down and the other left to be buttoned on or off?<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUstA32v3Aa2EYGvHebTcVjVJ469jtVzd4_ndp98ae0d0yUnd8gsTi0nasBGpKNS4zMVdFjOjiPd2yaBdkXr3tta2O68fXXI1C2C6Iuieb3odx5GtjcTnnauyUek6NbIvKrgRzmTBnNKV1/s1600/SC7935.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUstA32v3Aa2EYGvHebTcVjVJ469jtVzd4_ndp98ae0d0yUnd8gsTi0nasBGpKNS4zMVdFjOjiPd2yaBdkXr3tta2O68fXXI1C2C6Iuieb3odx5GtjcTnnauyUek6NbIvKrgRzmTBnNKV1/s400/SC7935.jpg" width="215" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/brace-one-of-a-pair-121213">Brace, French, 1800-1830, Museum of Fine Arts Boston, 43.2006a</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/brace-one-of-a-pair-47066">Braces, French, 1790-1820, Museum of Fine Arts Boston, 41.181a</a></td></tr>
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My favourite museum, the MET, had very few results that approached my preferred time frame. However, this interesting bit of something popped up, which appears to have a flap covering something at one end (and no buttonhole at either end, so maybe the dark red under-flap contains a buttonhole or buckle of some kind): </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/122383">Suspenders, European, mid-18th century, Metropolitan Museum of Art, C.I.44.8.50a, b</a></td></tr>
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And finally, one more 1791 print that indicates the braces/gallows buttoned at the front. This is a satirical print, though, and shows the braces crossed at the front (which seems uncomfortable and impractical), so it must be taken with a grain of salt. But there are definitely braces involved at this point in time! </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption"><a href="http://www.britishmuseum.org/research/collection_online/collection_object_details.aspx?assetId=112614001&objectId=1504262&partId=1"><span style="font-size: x-small;">The British Museum, 1878, 1014.8</span></a></td></tr>
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The above examples at least give me a point at which to start. I am encouraged that at least one of the above examples uses pre-embroidered ribbon (to all appearances). Not sure if I am up to embroidering all those tiny scenes that seemed so popular on other pairs of braces at the time period.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5613855761909409996.post-90661764231565304412016-07-27T12:44:00.000-07:002016-07-27T15:16:02.357-07:00Buttonholes and more buttonholesThis week I pulled Kenny's breeches out of the closet and have been busily stitching up buttonholes, so that he can actually put them on and take them off without a needle and thread to keep them up.<br />
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It takes me approximately one episode of Upstairs Downstairs for each buttonhole. I ran out of episodes on the last one at the waist (still have the leg-buttons to do.) My stitches are improving, but it's a slow business.<br />
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Sneak peek! We'll do a photoshoot later, after I have figured out how to handle the legs.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5613855761909409996.post-58087771022596764292016-03-04T11:21:00.000-08:002016-03-05T10:47:29.924-08:00HSM 2016 - Regency Red Pleated Petticoat<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Last night, I finally competed (a bit belatedly) my first attempt at a challenge for HSM 2016 - February's Tucks and Pleating challenge!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A while ago I purchased some red linen, sure that I could find some historical costuming use for it. When I completed my short gown last year, I realized that I need a petticoat to go under it. When I saw <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2015/08/a-regency-shortgown-tutorial.html">Katherine's lovely petticoat and short gown</a>, the idea for this red pleated petti was born!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My inspiration is a bit sketch - I pulled from a few different sources and tried to common-sense the what I couldn't confirm. I HOPE that this is a reasonably authentic way to put together a high-waisted petticoat for 1790-1800, but I'll need to do more digging to confirm. Some of my sources for inspiration were:</span><br />
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<li><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As mentioned, Katherine's petticoat (which was modeled after a riding habit skirt from Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion).</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This <a href="http://digitaltmuseum.se/011023079168?query=halvylle&page=15&search_context=1&pos=355&count=1108#&gid=1&pid=2">linen petticoat</a> from Nordiska Museet (Sweden).</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/341358846730195123/">much more frilly muslin petticoat</a>.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A petticoat that was shown on the Nerdy History Girls' blog - <a href="http://twonerdyhistorygirls.blogspot.com/2012/11/working-clothes-for-1800.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Feed:+TwoNerdyHistoryGirls+(Two+Nerdy+History+Girls)&m=1">this is obviously a reproduction,</a> and I haven't seen the original. However, I have a good bit of faith in the ladies at the Margaret Hunter shop, so am happy to use it for reference.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Any number of tutorials on how to make an 18th c. petticoat. (<a href="http://www.koshka-the-cat.com/18c_petticoat.html">Here is Katherine Caron-Greig's tutorial</a>.) </span></li>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This was a first for me in the hand-sewing department. It is 100% hand-sewn (usually I cheat and stitch the longer invisible seams with a machine). While this approach meant it took longer than I had expected, it was surprisingly therapeutic. And it was satisfying to see my stitches get straighter and more even the farther along I got. Practice definitely does make perfect!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Because I had very limited yardage of this fabric, I had to do a bit of piecing to get two sizable rectangles for the skirt. You can slightly see the piecing in the photo below of the skirt back.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I made the skirt back wider than the skirt front, to get some extra fullness out of the back. All the seams are flat-felled, so there are zero raw edges visible. That took... pretty much forever. At the side seams, I finished each edge separately to about 9" from the top edge, to form a pocket slit (added to the project list: pockets!) </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Separately finished side seams, to about 9"</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">below top edge of the skirt panels.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Because my fabric was so limited, I had just enough to reach from a high waist to the ground, so I added a deep hem facing to finish the edge. I haven't seen this on turn of the century petticoats (mostly because I haven't seen many turn of the century petticoats), but they are evident on petticoats pre-1790, so I am assuming this is a reasonably authentic solution. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUoyLtbGGstHb0CEHUEE7hQFla1SbYMhz-j2o4Nl20cisjW_AE8PCl25AyjremeB4UkjRkPTf0mYvepH-1V6cE31gbfnXyvXJ3F-XG-328bGFG6yH2mrf0EiP2YJJsFnvhM_b4P6sPUDGv/s1600/HSF16_2_PLEATED+PETTICOAT+%252815+of+18%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUoyLtbGGstHb0CEHUEE7hQFla1SbYMhz-j2o4Nl20cisjW_AE8PCl25AyjremeB4UkjRkPTf0mYvepH-1V6cE31gbfnXyvXJ3F-XG-328bGFG6yH2mrf0EiP2YJJsFnvhM_b4P6sPUDGv/s320/HSF16_2_PLEATED+PETTICOAT+%252815+of+18%2529.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Skirt inside-out - this photo really clearly shows the</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">piecing on the skirt!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The waistband construction was simple - I pleated the skirt sections into separate front and back waistband pieces, then folded over the waistband and whipped it down on the inside. The pleating was an adventure... I eyeballed and stitched half of the back waistband in front of a documentary night before last. The next morning I realized my pleating was atrocious! </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Que horrer! </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQKr11HN4R8ra7laSPJZn4u7qCS6ISjyqjHc0zuIDQAed4Ka7HLtsgKBIhr6Ho0ftW_hPmpSSwI2d6LOngF2H_Bdm7Kyn9lH-Gd4YYd0DjtgfnJb7yU7DMLWMoYp19YlyRSinv51ubeVTL/s1600/HSF16_2_PLEATED+PETTICOAT+%252816+of+18%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQKr11HN4R8ra7laSPJZn4u7qCS6ISjyqjHc0zuIDQAed4Ka7HLtsgKBIhr6Ho0ftW_hPmpSSwI2d6LOngF2H_Bdm7Kyn9lH-Gd4YYd0DjtgfnJb7yU7DMLWMoYp19YlyRSinv51ubeVTL/s320/HSF16_2_PLEATED+PETTICOAT+%252816+of+18%2529.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I made sure to tidily pin the pleats on the other side...</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSvB9H8qmD5QBuVz5vVfLa5cuNauqLaY_qanJGKcTNz0mAEsSTF1koRZ_M1NfefX3wkpK7qsKJmOdJDXyiW5bkPpHYhgXFRLFWM4wSYyXOqaP-v5CcrGXgw2CyZHiHz9OCbmFwdDeaj4ad/s1600/HSF16_2_PLEATED+PETTICOAT+%252818+of+18%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSvB9H8qmD5QBuVz5vVfLa5cuNauqLaY_qanJGKcTNz0mAEsSTF1koRZ_M1NfefX3wkpK7qsKJmOdJDXyiW5bkPpHYhgXFRLFWM4wSYyXOqaP-v5CcrGXgw2CyZHiHz9OCbmFwdDeaj4ad/s320/HSF16_2_PLEATED+PETTICOAT+%252818+of+18%2529.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And couldn't resist ripping out the first side and re-pleating it!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After the waistband was on, it was easy as peas to add the tape ties and linen straps. I put it on my dummy (now named Ruth, in honor of the sad display dummy that lingered around the office at work until she one day mysteriously disappeared) with Kenny's linen shirt, and betook myself to the balcony. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Front, untied. The straps are the only thing holding it up.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqn3OAckBOWkl5RSpF61jS8owJK_03hL1fvTPbiiBOzXa6icJZ7DrN-XRskAUeuSF2nUptYwxRrMIyivH6r6y7seo6jTqMymyPWisw6gFUCm1_ut241wFekOmHb5vx0KXcqpXACr0JSboQ/s1600/HSF16_2_PLEATED+PETTICOAT+%25285+of+18%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqn3OAckBOWkl5RSpF61jS8owJK_03hL1fvTPbiiBOzXa6icJZ7DrN-XRskAUeuSF2nUptYwxRrMIyivH6r6y7seo6jTqMymyPWisw6gFUCm1_ut241wFekOmHb5vx0KXcqpXACr0JSboQ/s320/HSF16_2_PLEATED+PETTICOAT+%25285+of+18%2529.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Back, untied. I placed the back straps much closer together to</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">accommodate the narrow backs on dresses/bodices of the time.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The ties and how they are worn replicate a standard late 18th c. petticoat - ties on the back are pulled forward and tied at the front, and the ties on the front are wrapped all the way around the body and also tied in the front. Both knots are tucked under the waistband for maximum invisibility. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNPY-UXzq_DfXRvehTCw7JvGFb4Koq5plqChYKmk25zuQl41D3nymV9saW1T1b-sEl96nrrZJrM1C_bZwpbWls0So83M9Tt79Aa15ecfnA2ZCCBxwm-yWxRqVMZig3x2SmI48PInLG7erN/s1600/HSF16_2_PLEATED+PETTICOAT+%25286+of+18%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNPY-UXzq_DfXRvehTCw7JvGFb4Koq5plqChYKmk25zuQl41D3nymV9saW1T1b-sEl96nrrZJrM1C_bZwpbWls0So83M9Tt79Aa15ecfnA2ZCCBxwm-yWxRqVMZig3x2SmI48PInLG7erN/s320/HSF16_2_PLEATED+PETTICOAT+%25286+of+18%2529.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Back ties pulled up and tied in front.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirg_57VyE8SD_zkKEA37FOwriLJnP110zVlbCgEoRW4G72zStXyVLgotJTycIz9tGSWncHY84uCtIoBI6Lrq3Fq6a686w785jDuyiGBnSk7VANIVRSfmFoikqfpvAfKqK4J-WvVqwHRYpM/s1600/HSF16_2_PLEATED+PETTICOAT+%25287+of+18%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirg_57VyE8SD_zkKEA37FOwriLJnP110zVlbCgEoRW4G72zStXyVLgotJTycIz9tGSWncHY84uCtIoBI6Lrq3Fq6a686w785jDuyiGBnSk7VANIVRSfmFoikqfpvAfKqK4J-WvVqwHRYpM/s320/HSF16_2_PLEATED+PETTICOAT+%25287+of+18%2529.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Front ties wrapped around the back, crossing</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">over each other to return to the front again.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The final effect is nice and tidy! I especially love the pocket slits - I extended the front waisband a little longer on each side so that the top edge of the slits overlap each other, preventing gapping. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOkm4y5yntFx-1TRBRsEKS8eNOYMv7F_MW4C1cy8au7zX6-WB6Q1ldJvmFnc72V9Y3c1HutSB7L56avrmwaoopw0V3KMI-2bC1U9YXcRjQRvUyhvd6c4dc9clORDYLV4KPwoihdYBpZsxB/s1600/HSF16_2_PLEATED+PETTICOAT+%25289+of+18%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOkm4y5yntFx-1TRBRsEKS8eNOYMv7F_MW4C1cy8au7zX6-WB6Q1ldJvmFnc72V9Y3c1HutSB7L56avrmwaoopw0V3KMI-2bC1U9YXcRjQRvUyhvd6c4dc9clORDYLV4KPwoihdYBpZsxB/s320/HSF16_2_PLEATED+PETTICOAT+%25289+of+18%2529.jpg" width="311" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Front, tied.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWlgAbde_ZwWipR2ObDSjma7JCL_Y5KF67AD208pfB36HJaYeYEo7-wRhE1YmlSVKBps57-fpGBvVJBVF6dayL4Yav4TNT_8FLCXBBZUdVB5xD345JwNiYb9PwqaYjcue-TN685xzfaDWF/s1600/HSF16_2_PLEATED+PETTICOAT+%25288+of+18%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWlgAbde_ZwWipR2ObDSjma7JCL_Y5KF67AD208pfB36HJaYeYEo7-wRhE1YmlSVKBps57-fpGBvVJBVF6dayL4Yav4TNT_8FLCXBBZUdVB5xD345JwNiYb9PwqaYjcue-TN685xzfaDWF/s320/HSF16_2_PLEATED+PETTICOAT+%25288+of+18%2529.jpg" width="312" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Back, tied.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPw-UsHvjs6tlEZ-aus09ce88DLWyQrh1lgtzZh7LpReS77Y8MuAgwa01YsQuDBJU5Ah3crzl6W3o1WEFFl1VKUST5eajskXiO0EqKrgP50RSfTrnzrlXbO54Iqsf-lLHoT-OOOZ206m5i/s1600/HSF16_2_PLEATED+PETTICOAT+%252810+of+18%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPw-UsHvjs6tlEZ-aus09ce88DLWyQrh1lgtzZh7LpReS77Y8MuAgwa01YsQuDBJU5Ah3crzl6W3o1WEFFl1VKUST5eajskXiO0EqKrgP50RSfTrnzrlXbO54Iqsf-lLHoT-OOOZ206m5i/s320/HSF16_2_PLEATED+PETTICOAT+%252810+of+18%2529.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Pocket slits! They stay closed when hanging.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Finally, just because I love seeing the guts of costumes, and just in case you might too; the inside-out petticoat. As you can see in the back view, I made the straps a little over-long. Just in case a) I get bigger, or b) I want to lend this out to somebody of different dimensions than myself. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4jTPj2Hw1EueTCiS7I5qAQxiZmtHzSbGHgD5CgiQYaf5lScBAMgDSwLY9i3W9NDaP7_a_2SDQYkCI2jJlnYZGGbVRzkPsevsR5YvUWJ5tSVy0u86H58Zan3mRm1wybHbFnjLtw3M1fUpi/s1600/HSF16_2_PLEATED+PETTICOAT+%252811+of+18%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="319" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4jTPj2Hw1EueTCiS7I5qAQxiZmtHzSbGHgD5CgiQYaf5lScBAMgDSwLY9i3W9NDaP7_a_2SDQYkCI2jJlnYZGGbVRzkPsevsR5YvUWJ5tSVy0u86H58Zan3mRm1wybHbFnjLtw3M1fUpi/s320/HSF16_2_PLEATED+PETTICOAT+%252811+of+18%2529.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Front (interior), tied.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXEGqDLvK-1KyiUTnFhyphenhyphencYwBtMWXY1ik8vW5uiQITv7NvnyxGc_bi-acQScmOjUnbRDir8mYbiM5xrOgHjqtKiVjA37SgU29jt2TcpyBJhSDIw8wVDiNh6xAONbOu4foxt_5BDGg42yuUX/s1600/HSF16_2_PLEATED+PETTICOAT+%252814+of+18%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="313" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXEGqDLvK-1KyiUTnFhyphenhyphencYwBtMWXY1ik8vW5uiQITv7NvnyxGc_bi-acQScmOjUnbRDir8mYbiM5xrOgHjqtKiVjA37SgU29jt2TcpyBJhSDIw8wVDiNh6xAONbOu4foxt_5BDGg42yuUX/s320/HSF16_2_PLEATED+PETTICOAT+%252814+of+18%2529.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Back (interior) tied.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-Ekr86ij0iCFO8MQcwFoLWearlkaE8v07ogyYkZUPz1add0OBLSZJ2nMNqfdS_FQvytUOyfIFuhHNMAJka01WW4YY1qwy8HHcoJJzMKVZcS-eWoF24hDDzDSbhWJccGEGtrrA8nqFtcdK/s1600/HSF16_2_PLEATED+PETTICOAT+%252812+of+18%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-Ekr86ij0iCFO8MQcwFoLWearlkaE8v07ogyYkZUPz1add0OBLSZJ2nMNqfdS_FQvytUOyfIFuhHNMAJka01WW4YY1qwy8HHcoJJzMKVZcS-eWoF24hDDzDSbhWJccGEGtrrA8nqFtcdK/s320/HSF16_2_PLEATED+PETTICOAT+%252812+of+18%2529.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Front top - you can see the straps are just stitched on with</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">a single line of stitching - easy to take out and move around!</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkTo_mvdhMQ5zZNTnecbvJCEmIOFu-4Qoe9NyOPhPh_WJ0bs0CqXqndiu7OrevdlUD90grbWX9YUb18QxegSMw5gKncqUFG0jcmc11ad03TcPwNLXl8s5Rn3e1rUQoqhxjVaQwPrUtjpqY/s1600/HSF16_2_PLEATED+PETTICOAT+%252813+of+18%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkTo_mvdhMQ5zZNTnecbvJCEmIOFu-4Qoe9NyOPhPh_WJ0bs0CqXqndiu7OrevdlUD90grbWX9YUb18QxegSMw5gKncqUFG0jcmc11ad03TcPwNLXl8s5Rn3e1rUQoqhxjVaQwPrUtjpqY/s320/HSF16_2_PLEATED+PETTICOAT+%252813+of+18%2529.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Back top - here you see the longer straps, for adjustability.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And now, the HSM deets: </span></div>
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<div style="background-color: white; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #191919; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.73; margin-bottom: 26px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="border-image-outset: initial; border-image-repeat: initial; border-image-slice: initial; border-image-source: initial; border-image-width: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><i>The Challenge: </i>#2, Tucks & Pleats</span></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #191919; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.73; margin-bottom: 26px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><em style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Material: </em><span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Linen for the body and straps, cotton twill tape for the ties. </span></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #191919; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.73; margin-bottom: 26px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><em style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Pattern:</em></span><em style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"> </em><span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Cobbled together based on multiple inspiration. </span></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #191919; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.73; margin-bottom: 26px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><em style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Year: </em><span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">1790-1800</span></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #191919; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.73; margin-bottom: 26px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="border-image-outset: initial; border-image-repeat: initial; border-image-slice: initial; border-image-source: initial; border-image-width: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><i>Notions: </i>Gutermann cotton and poly threads. </span></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #191919; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.73; margin-bottom: 26px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="border-image-outset: initial; border-image-repeat: initial; border-image-slice: initial; border-image-source: initial; border-image-width: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><i>How historically accurate is it? </i>I would like to estimate around 80%. The majority of materials are technically appropriate for the time, although the quality of the fabric is maybe a bit too slubby and rough. The construction makes sense for the time, but is a bit of a question mark.</span></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #191919; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.73; margin-bottom: 26px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="border-image-outset: initial; border-image-repeat: initial; border-image-slice: initial; border-image-source: initial; border-image-width: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><i>Hours to complete: </i>maybe 30? Maybe a bit less. </span></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #191919; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.73; margin-bottom: 26px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><i style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">First worn: </i><span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Haven't worn it yet! </span></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #191919; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.73; margin-bottom: 26px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="border-image-outset: initial; border-image-repeat: initial; border-image-slice: initial; border-image-source: initial; border-image-width: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><i>Total cost: </i>Most of the materials were stash, from a while ago... I would estimate, all told, probably under $20.</span></span></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5613855761909409996.post-60645461868853548232015-08-09T15:05:00.002-07:002015-08-09T15:21:53.518-07:00Napoleanic Batman + chemisette ruffles that defy gravity. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Kenny's work has an annual, themed Christmas party each year, and this year he is on the party planning committee. One of the themes they are tossing around is <i>Masquerade... </i>really hoping they decide to go with this one! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Our favourite masked icon, by a mile, is Batman. Kenny came home with the idea to translate Batman into my favourite era - late 18th/early 19th century! </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">I started here...</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Fzv7XLV1p1s-g5gWhpHcMCR7_AdhTxB12t92jc-cnLqH9NpvETKtXV0ZLhJh5OmibBRTcOFu0I79JfvEhaG8EJqaXN4AyktjazeDIHYc6tI2-q0L9HI3jdZL0Hkfy0CmcxUjg-tyRJjq/s1600/photo+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Fzv7XLV1p1s-g5gWhpHcMCR7_AdhTxB12t92jc-cnLqH9NpvETKtXV0ZLhJh5OmibBRTcOFu0I79JfvEhaG8EJqaXN4AyktjazeDIHYc6tI2-q0L9HI3jdZL0Hkfy0CmcxUjg-tyRJjq/s400/photo+2.jpg" width="300" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">And then had to translate into a female Batman (because a girl can be Batman too, right?) </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmMHjBKlIW-l5meTfNefvCHggjAXvahCHCTpi268l-n3U46XjY2rKf9HGusla53v_wjn9gH4UK-NSLQor8Ii52bH2NTQcc39VOdBHAbtrh2UnoPT-ab4Ts8ZyYsscl_nhhA6XSPCjVtIeI/s1600/photo+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmMHjBKlIW-l5meTfNefvCHggjAXvahCHCTpi268l-n3U46XjY2rKf9HGusla53v_wjn9gH4UK-NSLQor8Ii52bH2NTQcc39VOdBHAbtrh2UnoPT-ab4Ts8ZyYsscl_nhhA6XSPCjVtIeI/s400/photo+1.jpg" width="300" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">This may or may not become a reality, depending on whether the masquerade happens this upcoming January. Either way, I want to figure out how to execute that chemisette ruffle - I have seen standing ruffles/collars like this in paintings of the era, but have not been able to catch a glimpse of <i>how </i>they stayed up! </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Instinctively I assume an supportasse or underpropper of some kind would have to be used, just to support the tall ruffles at the back. This look reminds me of the wisks and rebatos of the Elizabethan era (the Very Merry Seamstress explains more about those <a href="http://www.verymerryseamstress.com/elizabethanwhisks.html">HERE</a>.) Below is a beautiful example of an Elizabethan style supportasse (if you know the origin of this one, do advise and I will credit! I found this image secondhand via the linked blog, but that is not the original source.) </span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixthTo1mFUDQ5b-tvsrW3dhMWLxda3PjHgr0p4yx1STwDKwufN42jUq_YiG47e5Yk8AYu1NsqsyJMGYllmlaCdei0bqjo04IsDxoNDl8S3vK0XKqA5O_JN3nKmLP9x4TAOJpHVMzu9rwLr/s1600/22435_original.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixthTo1mFUDQ5b-tvsrW3dhMWLxda3PjHgr0p4yx1STwDKwufN42jUq_YiG47e5Yk8AYu1NsqsyJMGYllmlaCdei0bqjo04IsDxoNDl8S3vK0XKqA5O_JN3nKmLP9x4TAOJpHVMzu9rwLr/s320/22435_original.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Suportasse, developed by ??, found via <a href="http://petit-rien.livejournal.com/171043.html?thread=272419">The Sewing Corner</a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">The easiest way to make this shape stay up would be to not ruffle it - a flat shape can be formed to stand on its own, more or less (if the fabric is stiffened enough). This is illustrated in the painting below (there is a shadow around the edge, just inside the outer frill, that indicates to me that it may also be wired). </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT1v5lJ-jnOVQY9bAimesuKwu08jqMmA50UER5dftwhC39zqwWRRFpftqlhq26626MlMyNhikgxM6yYUgVWmCnsdIXtQSJQ6YtDhvqbOGhyphenhyphenvEnSykIdyrNSViYFotaAsxe3_c4_5eBgtz4/s1600/59f44f63e256aa314cf87d5d233dcdba.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT1v5lJ-jnOVQY9bAimesuKwu08jqMmA50UER5dftwhC39zqwWRRFpftqlhq26626MlMyNhikgxM6yYUgVWmCnsdIXtQSJQ6YtDhvqbOGhyphenhyphenvEnSykIdyrNSViYFotaAsxe3_c4_5eBgtz4/s400/59f44f63e256aa314cf87d5d233dcdba.jpg" width="326" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, 'ヒラギノ角ゴ Pro W3', 'Hiragino Kaku Gothic Pro', メイリオ, Meiryo, 'MS Pゴシック', arial, sans-serif; line-height: 20px; text-align: start;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Portret van Nieskia Reiniera Wentholt (1789-1862), c. 1812,<br />by Willem Bartel van der Kooi</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">I am almost certain that the below example is wired along the edge (that corner on the left side is rippling exactly the way a wired corner would). This is most feasible in a flat collar - however, the delicacy of mushroom-pleated ruffles might be ruined by a wire along the very edge. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4OtDLRh232PnMDg89QIimrY9_EDnvWCfXBvagS9e2mUG2tvdB3spZrTrZcriJ1kv7c-S8Uo4kyVyjzQI8e7Q0ck78sczY0lUiEPVObOL-55UUNqZE9RLIhhz17sDgB9CCrf2amxPpO23B/s1600/b03188ce32e87973eb976615e0bf339d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4OtDLRh232PnMDg89QIimrY9_EDnvWCfXBvagS9e2mUG2tvdB3spZrTrZcriJ1kv7c-S8Uo4kyVyjzQI8e7Q0ck78sczY0lUiEPVObOL-55UUNqZE9RLIhhz17sDgB9CCrf2amxPpO23B/s400/b03188ce32e87973eb976615e0bf339d.jpg" width="338" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 20px; text-align: start;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;">Marcia Burnes Van Ness, c. 1809-1814, by Gilbert Stuart.</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">The below example seems to completely defy gravity - there is no evidence of wire or support that I can see, and yet the delicate (and thin) frill floats airily about the wearers chin. This has me baffled. A case of artistic license? </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA-mOzdmK1E6jBhRI8-Jis95Q5zM_WJ5bN_aETE_XorCESgXYGqQB_3qzXn5d7U7EHxS-uLwFFsIpw0M8gtNMckyHe6cG3AlPN8vsI6DvxKHGUsIPB65eLG8UPQ2eF7zRRX0RQ7gPKaCEE/s1600/ed752ab939c8f62602bfafa3818c0fdb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA-mOzdmK1E6jBhRI8-Jis95Q5zM_WJ5bN_aETE_XorCESgXYGqQB_3qzXn5d7U7EHxS-uLwFFsIpw0M8gtNMckyHe6cG3AlPN8vsI6DvxKHGUsIPB65eLG8UPQ2eF7zRRX0RQ7gPKaCEE/s400/ed752ab939c8f62602bfafa3818c0fdb.jpg" width="310" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 20px; text-align: start;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;">"Portrait of Mrs. Spencer Perceval" <br />by Elisabeth-Louise Vigee Lebrun, 1804</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Rosalba Peale's ruff (below) also seems incredibly upstanding for the delicacy of the fabric represented - although hers at least has the bulk of a few layers to assist it. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO7owyWURdZAFPuN1T8aLDbytY99taIilBFDYU2tP7N8QXWIG_2u0OFhWbAKILVQKDIK2pnSE7FjnkYtnonqveAUoC_PZsGjmNprpBwVO2L3nOm9Tpyxy-vuDaPcNqG3PHdWwS_5LuDOk9/s1600/cc77ccadf4b5ec2a94d88ea756524386.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO7owyWURdZAFPuN1T8aLDbytY99taIilBFDYU2tP7N8QXWIG_2u0OFhWbAKILVQKDIK2pnSE7FjnkYtnonqveAUoC_PZsGjmNprpBwVO2L3nOm9Tpyxy-vuDaPcNqG3PHdWwS_5LuDOk9/s400/cc77ccadf4b5ec2a94d88ea756524386.jpg" width="290" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 20px; text-align: start;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;">Rembrandt Peale - Portrait of Rosalba Peale [c.1820]</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Clearly this concept requires a bit more investigation. I plan to check out more of these in the next few posts, as I try to figure out the engineering behind these feats of delicate architecture! </span><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5613855761909409996.post-77893877870605845412015-07-09T17:32:00.002-07:002015-07-09T17:40:08.509-07:00Green Silk Waistcoat - Completed! This past weekend, I pulled out a UFO and completed it! Kenny's green silk waistcoat (which I had started a year ago and whip-stitched him into for the Louisville Jane Austen Festival) has been waiting for the following elements for completion:<br />
- buttonholes (finished those a couple months ago, in the last post!)<br />
- buttons (covered those some time ago, but had to wait for the buttonholes to apply.)<br />
- back gore (we realized when I stitched this onto him for the festival, that I had left zero wiggle room in the girth.)<br />
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Last weekend, I really needed to complete something creative to help myself out of a low patch, and this guy was the handiest (and the easiest/most instantly-gratifying) project at hand.<br />
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First, I sliced straight up the back, opening a wedge of space for a skinny gore to be inserted. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj60xwkEnTCtrkaTU1hB5LAMxKO1g3MDZvZx3D1LEjwK8Uzeut_gr6nyyHg_EmSikv1uy0oV8wlzWTe9xFaDK9T_Af2jEmF9PdD6P5k-Th9yDCYnVj6b64kN9u79hnazOxMkTPqs9zoegtv/s1600/2015-07-06+14.01.06.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj60xwkEnTCtrkaTU1hB5LAMxKO1g3MDZvZx3D1LEjwK8Uzeut_gr6nyyHg_EmSikv1uy0oV8wlzWTe9xFaDK9T_Af2jEmF9PdD6P5k-Th9yDCYnVj6b64kN9u79hnazOxMkTPqs9zoegtv/s400/2015-07-06+14.01.06.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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Then, I turned under the edges of the vest back, sandwiched the gore (the hem of which I pre-finished) in-between, and then prickstitched the edges together over the gore. I regretted this stitch method as soon as I started working down the second side of the gore, as it got much harder to see my needle on the right side of the fabric for each tiny stitch. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju28I9dJQO2D5aEB_O-8A6v5lRYKZ6IFWKinf-hG3O-HuL3XIFz2UcS24hFz6DsrbeNfAjNnDZRy7hbwwG3VH129gSvBOwag6snFbvukF2yl61qjZGZ1SBGPA2KWiTiT09dZL1ml3lVjCZ/s1600/2015-07-06+14.55.07.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju28I9dJQO2D5aEB_O-8A6v5lRYKZ6IFWKinf-hG3O-HuL3XIFz2UcS24hFz6DsrbeNfAjNnDZRy7hbwwG3VH129gSvBOwag6snFbvukF2yl61qjZGZ1SBGPA2KWiTiT09dZL1ml3lVjCZ/s400/2015-07-06+14.55.07.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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The exterior appears to be topstitched, the interior appears to be whip-stitched. Construction stitches; the most mundane but most important stitches on a garment. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtKvKwkcmooBa-tX176czBknLt7rVauYh4hkgUL9Gm0zxjh1KYZ2j3zHbPrtHjlNTIzFwHznceV3HVYRyD8M43WgaUzpTUvIORo1ifqb362Ui9zi4kidEDtrIH5gNsd5-fZo-ChcZxDm41/s1600/2015-07-06+17.16.10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtKvKwkcmooBa-tX176czBknLt7rVauYh4hkgUL9Gm0zxjh1KYZ2j3zHbPrtHjlNTIzFwHznceV3HVYRyD8M43WgaUzpTUvIORo1ifqb362Ui9zi4kidEDtrIH5gNsd5-fZo-ChcZxDm41/s400/2015-07-06+17.16.10.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Finally, I stitched on my buttons et voila! This baby is finally complete, and well-fitting. (Someday my hand-stitch tension will be perfect and my costumes will be entirely wrinkle-free. Hopefully.) </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2vQf3rLxIY6gPi28dJOF5dRIGmrr-jyrSbi67YKf81WHgtl2wLbmLQlUcpFYje3rBDyqiGNWardFj0tLjWoAhiEHw0-7dCiaOO0Bay_ZS0m-H4xPYgrUoUL_ZDHDJN-1BNS3wp5boA5Ts/s1600/2015-07-06+17.14.51.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2vQf3rLxIY6gPi28dJOF5dRIGmrr-jyrSbi67YKf81WHgtl2wLbmLQlUcpFYje3rBDyqiGNWardFj0tLjWoAhiEHw0-7dCiaOO0Bay_ZS0m-H4xPYgrUoUL_ZDHDJN-1BNS3wp5boA5Ts/s320/2015-07-06+17.14.51.jpg" width="240" /> </a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtVVYdv6SkZRmt4PUzkv62kLDDg-VDpp2xgJiGAQX82bZSgwYMXKXcnwSKaD6YBX0LiGHNzrZdY1UA3SQNQcnFlis6M7rEdHVx6HTPj3InjBBU7A6PSSg-fcuBS95ibw9VbhoBTrJxKfcJ/s1600/2015-07-06+17.15.16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtVVYdv6SkZRmt4PUzkv62kLDDg-VDpp2xgJiGAQX82bZSgwYMXKXcnwSKaD6YBX0LiGHNzrZdY1UA3SQNQcnFlis6M7rEdHVx6HTPj3InjBBU7A6PSSg-fcuBS95ibw9VbhoBTrJxKfcJ/s320/2015-07-06+17.15.16.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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The pattern I used for this was by <a href="http://www.kannikskorner.com/patmen2.htm">Kannik's Korner, Men's Waistcoats, c. 1790-1815</a>. The pattern had some great historical documentation, and a lovely vocabulary of stitches (always helpful to one new to historical handsewing.) The only part I was uncertain about was the way the internal front edge interfacing/interlining was supposed to whip onto the body fabric - I don't think I could have achieved that invisibly in this fabric. So does one skip that on thin silk waistcoats? Or does one just really get better at their invisible stitching? </div>
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Glad this is finished! Next to complete: the linen tailcoat. </div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5613855761909409996.post-12039215069451170942015-04-12T11:03:00.003-07:002015-04-12T11:04:20.513-07:00Buttons and ButtonholesI have FINALLY gotten around to covering some buttons for Kenny's breeches and waistcoat! It's taken me long enough. After stitching a few buttonholes I have concluded that I need a lot more practice on buttonholes. Good thing I have many more to stitch before his outfit is concluded! Hopefully by the time I get to the coat, they'll be... presentable. Perhaps not perfect but hopefully getting there.<br />
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These are the items I used:<br />
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<b>Listed from left to right:</b><br />
<i>1.</i> Measuring tape, for measuring out the space between all the buttonholes. I like my handy retractable one from Jo-Ann's.<br />
<i>2.</i> Sharp "betweens" needles! I like this type needles because they are short and therefore easier for making little stitches, quickly. This kind of needle is often used by quilters for that reason. Mine are made by S. Thomson & Sons, size 10 (the smallest, sharpest size), available <a href="http://www.wawak.com/products/product.cfm/pid/6401/Betweens-Hand-Needles-Size-10/" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
<i>3.</i> <a href="http://www.wawak.com/products/product.cfm/pid/13269/Basting-Thread-60-Cotton-1-250-yds-White/" target="_blank">#60 basting thread</a>. I waffled about purchasing this (because can't one just use normal thread to baste, and just stitch lightly?) but I really love it! It seems to be lightly waxed or something, because it is springy and doesn't twist up on itself. It also is fine enough to keep from leaving any marks on my silk taffeta.<br />
<i>4.</i> Hammer, for pounding the buttonhole chisel. Probably could get away with a rubber mallet for this, but I don't have one.<br />
<i>5.</i> <a href="http://www.wawak.com/products/product.cfm/pid/9389/Buttonhole-Cutter-Set/" target="_blank">Buttonhole cutter and block</a>. Super-sharp, much nicer than scissors for cutting evenly through all layers of fabric.<br />
<i>6.</i> Silk buttonhole twist. I used <a href="http://www.superiorthreads.com/shop/category/thread/?brand=Buttonhole+Silk" target="_blank">Superior Thread's #16 buttonhole silk</a>. This is so much nicer than cotton embroidery twist found at hobby stores. It slides through the fabric like butter!<br />
<i>7.</i> Needle-threader (there is no way I can get the buttonhole twist through that tiny, sharp needle's eye without a little help!)<br />
<i>8.</i> <a href="http://www.wawak.com/products/product.cfm/pid/7857/Thimble-Open-Top-Size-Small/" target="_blank">Tailor's thimble</a>. I am NOT a thimble-wearing seamstress, which is probably bad, but I determined to try stitching with one for this project. I used an open-ended tailor's thimble (which is held so that you push the needle through with the side of your finger/thimble), and I really liked it. Still feels a little awkward, but I'm getting the hang of it the more I use it. (NOTE: I bought mine from WAWAK, <a href="http://www.wawak.com/products/search.cfm?KEYS=thimble&x=-914&y=-17" target="_blank">they have a variety here</a>, and I did NOT realize that I would be getting a dozen of them for $2.29! That is what happened to me. Maybe they wear out? Maybe they were mis-packed? Just a head's-up.)<br />
<i>10.</i> Scissors and pliers, for pulling stubborn needles through the fabric and clipping threads.<br />
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<b>Stitching the Buttonhole:</b><br />
I started out by basting (with a ginormous pad-stitch?) around the spaces where the buttonhole would go. The below picture shows that handy-dandy basting thread in action, as well as the tailor's thimble doing what thimbles do.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The index finger starts things off by guiding the needle into the fabric,<br />
and then the middle finger with the thimble comes up behind<br />
and does all the heavy lifting (pushing the needle through).</td></tr>
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Next, I punched a slit <i>almost </i>the length of the buttonhole into my fabric. (I broke the little wooden chisel block in the process. Sad. Will use a scrap of 2x4 next time.)<br />
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Then I whipped the edges of the new slit with basting thread. Just to keep things tidy and all in place when stitching with the silk twist.<br />
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I ran two long stitches (with my buttonhole twist) along each side of the buttonhole. I'll later stitch over these and they will help reinforce the overall buttonhole. Notice that the long stitches extend a little ways past my cut-out. Back in the day (vaguely late 18th century), buttonholes were often decorative, and also often excessively long. Even when a buttonhole was functional, the stitching would often extend way past the actual slit in the fabric, to create the visual impression of a long buttonhole even if the actual hole was pretty small. I am not quite sure when this practice stopped - I think that by the turn of the century, buttonholes were shrinking back to a respectably practical size, but I don't have a lot of research to prove when that happened. (Also note, I just used my silk twist for these base stitches. Probably I should have used something weightier, like buttonhole gimp, but I guess I'll try that next time!)<br />
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Starting where I want the non-functional end of my buttonhole to be, I started stitching along one side of my buttonhole, wrapping the thread around my needle for each stitch (as per <a href="https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.232523200142266.57700.169541856440401&type=3" target="_blank">this Burnley & Trowbridge tutorial on 18th century buttonholes</a>).<br />
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Once my stitches reached the slit in the fabric, I started going straight through the slit and coming up on the outside edge of the buttonhole, still wrapping the thread around the needle. My fabric has narrow, buttonhole-width stripes, which made it a perfect guide!<br />
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At the end of the buttonhole, I made two long stitches across the width of the buttonhole. These are to support my bar tack. The bar tack is stitched just like the first end of the buttonhole was - little stitches in and out of the fabric, wrapping the thread around the needle as I go.<br />
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Aaand, back we go. All the way to the end where I started.<br />
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One more bar tack... (I am miserable at bar tacks. Need a lot of practice!)<br />
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And the buttonhole is finished!<br />
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I clearly need to work on my tension - silk taffeta is not super forgiving when it comes to poor tension/fabric slippage. But, glad to be almost done with this piece. Just have to add the covered buttons and slip an extra wedge of fabric in the back (it is a bit snug around the waist), and it will be complete!<br />
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<b>Useful resources:</b><br />
- <a href="https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.232523200142266.57700.169541856440401&type=3" target="_blank">Burnley & Trowbridge tutorial</a> (on facebook)<br />
- <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qQ00IlCfzhU&feature=player_embedded" target="_blank">YouTube video of Mr. Stuart Lille of Ft. Ticonderoga stitching 18th century buttonholes</a> (updated <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ladhbfRl6_0">here</a>)<br />
- <a href="http://thegoldenscissors.blogspot.com/2012/09/the-first-thousand-are-hardest.html" target="_blank">Overview of 18th century buttonhole-making, by Mara Riley</a> (somehow, my buttonholes look nothing like hers. Hmm.)<br />
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And a couple of fun links about thimbles and their uses:<br />
- <a href="http://www.purlbee.com/sewing-tutorials/2008/5/6/sewing-kit-essentials-thimbles.html" target="_blank">The Purl Bee</a> looks at lots of different kinds of thimbles<br />
- The <a href="http://www.englishcut.com/2005/11/21/thimble-tip/" target="_blank">English Cut - Savile Row</a> blog offers a couple tips on how to use a tailor's thimbleUnknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5613855761909409996.post-23902230762490013752015-02-19T13:24:00.000-08:002015-02-24T06:37:38.325-08:00Interior of a Kitchen, 1815Just popping back in briefly to share this lovely image I ran across this afternoon. It is <i>Interior of a Kitchen</i>, by Martin Drolling, painted in 1815.<br />
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Scenes of domestic life in history are so interesting to me. It is a little window into real life, which is not really accessible in formal portraits of individuals.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj28RRiW8Jy2uFh_l0ZyPN1i1ZVdfEzFeeJX9Jd25nUcS-82jFXirjH98qAO4AmZEowfpnZFbz0TIL7h0tAP6lfXwMOsQ5QTwRMubgNAaE0rrztuxaPI32hM-Ai8dLdkGE5NI7gva7JQU6R/s1600/kitchen.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj28RRiW8Jy2uFh_l0ZyPN1i1ZVdfEzFeeJX9Jd25nUcS-82jFXirjH98qAO4AmZEowfpnZFbz0TIL7h0tAP6lfXwMOsQ5QTwRMubgNAaE0rrztuxaPI32hM-Ai8dLdkGE5NI7gva7JQU6R/s1600/kitchen.jpg" height="320" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/d/drolling/kitchen.html"><i>Interior of a Kitchen, </i>1815, Martin Drolling</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqsnujmDQ6VGZOF9FH6JtUdNadS8A_9GIDu1me6KLEWv-AfvBodblbdgUghusMn8UoPEWGNuQ5BehXQ0Mn5EXsU-EuI5uJWlgfaSMU1FuEmDfn4XdMlAiMJY_PJ9ao3dP3eIp0a5Oy7reL/s1600/kitchen1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqsnujmDQ6VGZOF9FH6JtUdNadS8A_9GIDu1me6KLEWv-AfvBodblbdgUghusMn8UoPEWGNuQ5BehXQ0Mn5EXsU-EuI5uJWlgfaSMU1FuEmDfn4XdMlAiMJY_PJ9ao3dP3eIp0a5Oy7reL/s1600/kitchen1.jpg" height="640" width="494" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/d/drolling/kitchen.html"><i>Interior of a Kitchen, </i>1815, Martin Drolling</a></td></tr>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5613855761909409996.post-13002656109544425742014-11-22T14:39:00.003-08:002014-11-22T14:39:47.543-08:00Free to return to period sewing! The wedding dress I have been working on for the past many months is now complete! If you want to read about it, check out <a href="http://bonnybluebelle.blogspot.com/2014/11/wedding-dress-complete.html">my other sewing blog, Pins and Needles.</a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjehnMlQu7qIrzZ2wsJuYo5KuIGDSEtqQdjRJ9fDfjnwbBtcmAbi6DlpxFP1dXH2FClRQm9HKcTiKyy5cX7YfkfpYO1GQYLj7DfvZmIctf2080i09kGzML1NLepAYP0LDbZ7xdoX_bvquFO/s1600/IMG_3431.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjehnMlQu7qIrzZ2wsJuYo5KuIGDSEtqQdjRJ9fDfjnwbBtcmAbi6DlpxFP1dXH2FClRQm9HKcTiKyy5cX7YfkfpYO1GQYLj7DfvZmIctf2080i09kGzML1NLepAYP0LDbZ7xdoX_bvquFO/s1600/IMG_3431.jpg" height="640" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A brief synopsis of construction <a href="http://bonnybluebelle.blogspot.com/2014/11/wedding-dress-complete.html">here</a>.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<i>Hopefully</i> I will now be able to finish some of the projects I started almost a year ago! Looking forward to sewing historical items again.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5613855761909409996.post-29828155763809912182014-06-02T14:03:00.002-07:002014-07-22T11:40:05.908-07:00Non-Regency SewingSo, life has totally hijacked this blog (and its projects), but I had a fun little project on Memorial Day weekend. My sister flew down from the Far North (MI, which is where I am from), and we made her <a href="http://www.wearinghistorypatterns.com/R104.html">Wearing History's WWII Overalls</a>! If she had lived during WWII, she would have totally been a riveter or bomb girl. Or a WASP. <a href="http://bonnybluebelle.blogspot.com/2014/05/wearing-historys-wwii-homefront-1940s.html">Check out the project<u> on my other sewing blog</u></a>!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRKL9FvHp1r-iFap7R6Zpfncgfx9NXCPA9ltm41QbGlpN8_w4euD9DcoJtj6C4GIcFSouFiuAC65a3W0Gv6_3ISoKpSptMHdGYyRawnki9QsdWHb_oM0NQV8MyBm1os6ASCYGvI8Wz6DM/s1600/2014-05-26+13.37.41.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRKL9FvHp1r-iFap7R6Zpfncgfx9NXCPA9ltm41QbGlpN8_w4euD9DcoJtj6C4GIcFSouFiuAC65a3W0Gv6_3ISoKpSptMHdGYyRawnki9QsdWHb_oM0NQV8MyBm1os6ASCYGvI8Wz6DM/s1600/2014-05-26+13.37.41.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">She is a) a cutie-pie, and b) more buff than I will ever be in my life. </td></tr>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5613855761909409996.post-80938679070014986452014-04-26T14:53:00.003-07:002014-04-26T15:14:47.700-07:00Question: Lapel DecorationI have not updated in so long! I am a delinquent blogger, I always tell myself I will get better and then I leave long gaps between posts. I think the pressure to post something interesting gets to me, and I end up posting nothing at all because I feel like I don't have anything "good enough" to post!<br />
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However, today my curiosity was piqued (again, because I have noticed this detail before) by a painting I found as I was wasting yet another hour on Pinterest. The painting is of Jacques Marquet de Montbreton de Norvins, by Ingres. The reason it stood out to me was because of a small detail, a red patch on the subject's lapel. I have seen this in <i>two</i> other paintings, and that is all. What does it mean?! </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4RU8xjTd0JSfyFChgV9wu1pB4g3dPPpo2vBddgNUhWpM5Elh09ZACdsDfcZRXzyAWEj9KJOuVRkHdmHwrzqfKwc-tUpYr_6EU6EW9G-3unyrSzzSJOGNBraAswEHeStcev5LFuYqCM_7h/s1600/Ingres_Jacques_Marquet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4RU8xjTd0JSfyFChgV9wu1pB4g3dPPpo2vBddgNUhWpM5Elh09ZACdsDfcZRXzyAWEj9KJOuVRkHdmHwrzqfKwc-tUpYr_6EU6EW9G-3unyrSzzSJOGNBraAswEHeStcev5LFuYqCM_7h/s1600/Ingres_Jacques_Marquet.jpg" height="400" width="317" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jacques_Marquet_de_Montbreton_de_Norvins">Jacques Marquet de Montbreton de Norvins, by Ingres</a><br />
Notice the rather sizable red patch on his left lapel.</td></tr>
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I found what must be one of Ingres's sketches for this portrait. Even though this is a black-and-white sketch, you can still see the patch on the Marquet's left lapel. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXO_DleVtgmEixY_3UHzL5Ee3fPS0b4Se2e2Q6q23Tb5znQytY4hQgYgkOLDMh2BPFA5fGiU9EoAilcPpHhmyDAQW-PqF0_oo2Ph_f3nk8biG5fyfjs6oOCfGzT_XZbsKMk9NRaava4FuD/s1600/jacques-marquet-baron-de-montbreton-de-norvins.jpg!Blog.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXO_DleVtgmEixY_3UHzL5Ee3fPS0b4Se2e2Q6q23Tb5znQytY4hQgYgkOLDMh2BPFA5fGiU9EoAilcPpHhmyDAQW-PqF0_oo2Ph_f3nk8biG5fyfjs6oOCfGzT_XZbsKMk9NRaava4FuD/s1600/jacques-marquet-baron-de-montbreton-de-norvins.jpg!Blog.jpg" height="400" width="317" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.wikipaintings.org/en/jean-auguste-dominique-ingres/jacques-marquet-baron-de-montbreton-de-norvins#close">Jacques Marquet de Montbreton de Norvins, by Ingres</a></td></tr>
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<div>
I had noticed, a little while back, two other paintings of gentlemen sporting similar red patches. The first is of Charles Joseph Laurent Cordier, by Ingres (again). </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimstl05iOzSXAmMyIbC9mnyICCYGvUTzmsiT2CU-3sIPpq8bqeq0XpEY_XfZC-YpdCLuAVnyqj6xVJ2fRApKHNVxlLtL1l3Yd6Ax6ANdqakOvrTpdcWi4Sul50fiHwnBo1d7PMZBZK0hcf/s1600/Portrait_of_Charles_Joseph_Laurent_Cordier.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimstl05iOzSXAmMyIbC9mnyICCYGvUTzmsiT2CU-3sIPpq8bqeq0XpEY_XfZC-YpdCLuAVnyqj6xVJ2fRApKHNVxlLtL1l3Yd6Ax6ANdqakOvrTpdcWi4Sul50fiHwnBo1d7PMZBZK0hcf/s1600/Portrait_of_Charles_Joseph_Laurent_Cordier.jpg" height="400" width="303" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.wikipaintings.org/en/jean-auguste-dominique-ingres/portrait-of-charles-joseph-laurent-cordier-1811">Charles-Joseph-Laurent Cordier, by Ingres</a></td></tr>
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The second is of Comte (Antoine-Georges-Francois) de Chabaud-Latour and his family, by Jacques-Luc Barbier-Walbonne. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGKDaOl07XPaZHf2vaeGvnuybh_wxeOGW78sUzYUrymgmJdE6TWsKVJ6O2OL7HgOFpWE8i3erIEmpKlCDtWUURAjRZBqmDmgtUxkl85_jl-_qQLINSqyHLMmpmbS7pXmE2SXLrTa1vM2p0/s1600/48070.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGKDaOl07XPaZHf2vaeGvnuybh_wxeOGW78sUzYUrymgmJdE6TWsKVJ6O2OL7HgOFpWE8i3erIEmpKlCDtWUURAjRZBqmDmgtUxkl85_jl-_qQLINSqyHLMmpmbS7pXmE2SXLrTa1vM2p0/s1600/48070.jpg" height="400" width="310" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://risdmuseum.org/art_design/objects/778_portrait_of_antoine_georges_francois_de_chabaud_latour_and_his_family">Portrait of Antoine-Georges-Francois de Chabaud-Latour and his Family</a></td></tr>
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<div>
I found an engraving of Chabaud-Latour, in which he does <i>not</i> have the red patch on his lapel, only a medal (with the rosette pinning it to the lapel). </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMkYr8EWfgPTMvn3Ch4O8ZdvJdX1XHDsf9gJz57iCiMaKMH8-xuuVfs1ub3ubVfRFosKaTx9umvMqLNvQFMoXVy9N9Y1k-PdSnYORjZUJ1s52tBoAyd3Lm04Gtv0RMvxJms2Y2tyC8gP8a/s1600/484px-Antoine_Georges_Franc%CC%A7ois_de_Chabaud-Latour.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMkYr8EWfgPTMvn3Ch4O8ZdvJdX1XHDsf9gJz57iCiMaKMH8-xuuVfs1ub3ubVfRFosKaTx9umvMqLNvQFMoXVy9N9Y1k-PdSnYORjZUJ1s52tBoAyd3Lm04Gtv0RMvxJms2Y2tyC8gP8a/s1600/484px-Antoine_Georges_Franc%CC%A7ois_de_Chabaud-Latour.jpg" height="400" width="322" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antoine_Georges_Fran%C3%A7ois_de_Chabaud-Latour">Antoine-Georges-Francois de Chabaud-Latour</a></td></tr>
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All of the above men are French, and lived during Napoleon's Wars. However, I could only find any information on two:</div>
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<ul>
<li><u>Comte (Antoine-Georges-Francois) de Chabaud-Latour</u>: A member of Napoleon's Army (as far as I could discern from my google.translate of French web pages!), and then a member of the French Senate. </li>
<li><u>Jacques Marquet de Montbreton de Norvins</u>: A politician and writer writer, who wrote a history of Napoleon and various other historical books relevant to the Wars. </li>
</ul>
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Does anybody know about this bit of sartorial symbolism? I am so curious, and I would like to know what this red patch means before I consider tacking it onto any of the tailcoats I produce. </div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5613855761909409996.post-34032206200020238752014-03-21T14:19:00.000-07:002014-03-23T07:23:28.885-07:00Still Kickin'I promise I have not abruptly forgotten this blog, or the HSF challenges! Work has kicked into high gear and I haven't found the time to sit and sew lately. HOWEVER, I <i>have</i> cut out my Bernhardt stays, and they will be assembled... hopefully soon?<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVTEIHq-8jv2UmPGwm5oJUS_04DH7no9eP7WRdbcqiUmfOCtMiUXIOhE3_WGwLepcUZfr-9J-jJMKPppsLjjPseEASAj6hfwcBMFlnEQYzFmsdFznDBMUzUf_1yZ4x-sSANJ-Valxi-e24/s1600/unnamed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVTEIHq-8jv2UmPGwm5oJUS_04DH7no9eP7WRdbcqiUmfOCtMiUXIOhE3_WGwLepcUZfr-9J-jJMKPppsLjjPseEASAj6hfwcBMFlnEQYzFmsdFznDBMUzUf_1yZ4x-sSANJ-Valxi-e24/s1600/unnamed.jpg" height="298" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My lovely stays, waiting to be assembled...</td></tr>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5613855761909409996.post-28971501023063128382014-02-13T13:02:00.002-08:002017-03-17T16:18:07.627-07:00J.S. Bernhardt Stays - Part 3 - The DetailsI may be getting a little ahead of myself, because I haven't even cut out my final fabric yet, but I have spent much of today (another snow day!!) researching finishing details. Lots of little things add up to make an accurate finished product, and I want to make this corset as accurate as I can with my present resources.<br />
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There are four things I need to check and confirm to finish off my corset: </div>
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<li><b>What color/quality thread should I use?</b> This one was fairly easy to figure out - most of the extant examples that I have seen use matching or very tonal (close to matching) sew thread. My stays are going to be ivory/cream-coloured, so my safest bet is an easy match. <i>However</i>... that being said, I kind of think that matching is boring. The plan for this corset now is to stitch it up with blue/green/pink silk thread! </li>
<ul>
<li>Sabine mentions <a href="http://kleidungum1800.blogspot.com/2013/05/short-stays-studies-schnurleib-studien.html" target="_blank">here</a> that J.C. <span style="background-color: white;">Hüttner's</span> <i>Englische Miscellen</i> mentions light grey silk thread. <span style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://books.google.de/books?id=gdBGAAAAcAAJ&pg=PA73&dq=schn%C3%BCrleib&hl=de&sa=X&ei=w4VlUYuVE8Wk4gS2lIDICg&ved=0CEsQ6AEwBTgo#v=onepage&q=schn%C3%BCrleib&f=false">The book is available on Google Books</a></span>, but it is entirely in German, so I am trusting her judgement on this one. </li>
</ul>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_cYDXIsSClth37sKWbgTMW4ZXupow1voqV38DPi927nfCrmXerpmG_Pz3Rf51spDmuY2TtMdTuJL8C3GC9vbGV3TWHbXxf7rHBFr2iGFdORAxC3E3G7CwE6QzSaIl1jGsrrGN-nmDl3k1/s1600/Engl.+Miscellen+a+1801.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="141" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_cYDXIsSClth37sKWbgTMW4ZXupow1voqV38DPi927nfCrmXerpmG_Pz3Rf51spDmuY2TtMdTuJL8C3GC9vbGV3TWHbXxf7rHBFr2iGFdORAxC3E3G7CwE6QzSaIl1jGsrrGN-nmDl3k1/s1600/Engl.+Miscellen+a+1801.png" width="320" /></a></div>
<ul>
<li>Almost all of the extant stays/corsets that I looked at (in a range between 1790 and 1830) are listed by the museum websites as stitched with silk thread, so that firmly establishes my thread quality.</li>
</ul>
</ul>
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<ul>
<li><b>What type of boning/reinforcement should I use? </b>Unfortunately (actually, fortunately, save the whales and all that), I don't have access to baleen. So... cable ties to the rescue! This is my least authentic material, but I'm not going to source real baleen, and while <a href="http://farthingalesla.com/plastic_bones.html" target="_blank">this German plastic bonin</a>g has been reputed to be a good substitute, I have a package of cable ties in a drawer in my sewing room. How then should I place the boning? </li>
<ul>
<li>The corset below (c. 1820-30) has just cording in the back to reinforce the lacing. I don't really like how wobbly and bumpy that allows the back to be when the stays are laced up, so I would prefer to not go with that method. </li>
</ul>
</ul>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil2PhuNOClwao7GhDOcNOpA3TqnqUbtJ5_RO0Iqhbsre4fLfwPK35IDMPQmDxr2H0A76QcVh_IBNhSMJWCWYKqC4M2TDaG36vRrC4tUawsm2kMBGH7mjHtOPXEiOQ1sBwQcJg0Wq39QjsP/s1600/19950171349.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil2PhuNOClwao7GhDOcNOpA3TqnqUbtJ5_RO0Iqhbsre4fLfwPK35IDMPQmDxr2H0A76QcVh_IBNhSMJWCWYKqC4M2TDaG36vRrC4tUawsm2kMBGH7mjHtOPXEiOQ1sBwQcJg0Wq39QjsP/s1600/19950171349.JPG" width="232" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://kent.pastperfect-online.com/34506cgi/mweb.exe?request=record;id=589F6733-9EDA-4456-8582-307985658096;type=101">Corset, ca. 1820-1830, Kent State collections 1995.017.1349</a></span></td></tr>
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<ul><ul>
<li>Boning flanking the lacing holes is mentioned in<span style="background-color: white;"> Hüttner's </span><i>Englische Miscellen</i>, and can be seen in many of the examples I reviewed between1790 and 1830. </li>
</ul>
</ul>
<ul><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS4X_Uklg8aJ8J67hSaCKz6Sr8XQ37Gk4Rxj_8gyDM85hBkU6zelteOlrWyKviLqF2Mp-Iw4HBDOT1w8tgzJkxj7eGnn6b7NPHtGSxE09EFPeMkqg3MdVPUbxNsXU08evzw4QAw_dY0diH/s1600/2010EE7858_jpg_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS4X_Uklg8aJ8J67hSaCKz6Sr8XQ37Gk4Rxj_8gyDM85hBkU6zelteOlrWyKviLqF2Mp-Iw4HBDOT1w8tgzJkxj7eGnn6b7NPHtGSxE09EFPeMkqg3MdVPUbxNsXU08evzw4QAw_dY0diH/s1600/2010EE7858_jpg_l.jpg" width="228" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O138889/stays-unknown/"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Stays, ca. 1790, V&A museum no. T.237-1983</span></a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs1ufeeWxCen2OSFfUvcOcxaKWf8z7ckOS0tzFFCjudT0ai5TjV_aA9QHevAvIkFOqu90LPPGc9Os9vrhVTkCfzPo3sl3j8n2160Sj2lJ-tkxKTwRaiO2eL5Pf5wURy7SB-IKlF2wLuXjZ/s1600/a074ca25a8aae0960f394d9e2d65fa01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs1ufeeWxCen2OSFfUvcOcxaKWf8z7ckOS0tzFFCjudT0ai5TjV_aA9QHevAvIkFOqu90LPPGc9Os9vrhVTkCfzPo3sl3j8n2160Sj2lJ-tkxKTwRaiO2eL5Pf5wURy7SB-IKlF2wLuXjZ/s1600/a074ca25a8aae0960f394d9e2d65fa01.jpg" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O138890/corset-unknown/">Corset, ca. 1825-35, V&A museum no. T.27-1948</a></span></td></tr>
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<ul>
<li>If these stays seem too plain to me, I might cord them a bit. I found a great example at the MET (can you tell this is my fave museum? All those zoom-able photos!) that shows a bit of the interior-back. You can see what looks like wool yarn, poking out of the cording channels. This is exactly how <span style="background-color: white;">trapunto</span> is done - you have to leave those little end-loops pocking out to provide some ease to the stuffing. </li>
</ul>
</ul>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBe3uIBl9wYnC7_2X1CsrCVhZFoPE3ImC2btQd9FbbPUCZPw4Do6uhmdY5ol3ZI7Vol79_0JtAkQlYe6GGc2_IC67s-ckWkyyWej7MjUhZdGTlJb3b_2emzJM_7LeRDk9FF0NiXtrnSq6K/s1600/1970.106.5_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBe3uIBl9wYnC7_2X1CsrCVhZFoPE3ImC2btQd9FbbPUCZPw4Do6uhmdY5ol3ZI7Vol79_0JtAkQlYe6GGc2_IC67s-ckWkyyWej7MjUhZdGTlJb3b_2emzJM_7LeRDk9FF0NiXtrnSq6K/s1600/1970.106.5_F.jpg" width="252" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/82065?rpp=20&pg=6&ao=on&ft=corset&when=A.D.+1800-1900&pos=101">Corset, ca. 1810s-20s, MET accession no. 1970.103.5</a></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<ul>
<li><b>How should I finish the edges of the stays?</b> Do I bind with self-fabric bias binding? What about twill tape? Or just turning the edges under and butting them against the lining? I found examples of all of these methods.</li>
<ul>
<li><i>Twill tape:</i> this seemed to be really common 1820-1840. The tape was usually DTM (dyed-to-match, meaning the same color as the body fabric), but I found a very pretty example with contrasting twill tape binding at the MET (below-left). I also have seen this on older, transitional stays (below-right). </li>
</ul>
</ul>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixp0aoO2K6ZiLhOXdXXtLviBL27kq2wH-bB1x9vaOYgaOlcD00INYzmNiSnj1prqYTeAFlbR6zNeJFvxdlueDud3zsZKA0TALmb0cCxNpuExV0a7J0WfnGlNqFxl7_LTpkwh1MYIccozd7/s1600/61.141.1_front_CP4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixp0aoO2K6ZiLhOXdXXtLviBL27kq2wH-bB1x9vaOYgaOlcD00INYzmNiSnj1prqYTeAFlbR6zNeJFvxdlueDud3zsZKA0TALmb0cCxNpuExV0a7J0WfnGlNqFxl7_LTpkwh1MYIccozd7/s1600/61.141.1_front_CP4.jpg" width="151" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/158143?rpp=20&pg=4&ao=on&ft=corset&when=A.D.+1800-1900&pos=66">Corset, ca. 1815-25, MET accession no. 2009.300.3229</a><br />Note that the same twill tape as the binding<br />is used to secure the busk in its channel.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<ul><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizrlI1TJIHjktXRn-OtmYux3qFgdfzFAkvwDHYkajOSgI6Es34XcSip00dgnaYKJ_v3jkrFJgBHYLE1ch9Oa-_73axDS0oZpiEGajRAUOTSCqEQ36Q1s5sq5OcBSxyo0BMBNVksPAodOMw/s1600/CI41.94_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizrlI1TJIHjktXRn-OtmYux3qFgdfzFAkvwDHYkajOSgI6Es34XcSip00dgnaYKJ_v3jkrFJgBHYLE1ch9Oa-_73axDS0oZpiEGajRAUOTSCqEQ36Q1s5sq5OcBSxyo0BMBNVksPAodOMw/s1600/CI41.94_F.jpg" width="129" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/goog_793594592"> </a></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; line-height: 16.799999237060547px; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/107910?img=0">Stays, ca. late 18th cent., MET accession no. C.I.41.94</a></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; line-height: 16.799999237060547px; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">This tape is probably originally DTM.</span></span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
</ul>
<ul><ul>
<li><i>Self-fabric binding:</i> this method was pretty common on the whole range of stays/corsets that I looked at. Sometimes the binding appeared to be cut on the bias, but sometimes it was clearly cut on the straight grain (nightmare for curves!) </li>
</ul>
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<ul>
<li><i>Faced edges:</i> facing the edges with the lining (or just turning the fabric over the lining to finish) was definitely <i>not</i> the most common method of finishing the neck and hem edges, but I saw it on a few corsets. I don't think I'll go with this method, too much of a pain to press all the edges under before whipping the lining to them. </li>
</ul>
</ul>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0Ruuon-rajv8x4imHHAP9SvVgWbFqA_lp-NuJ5aTmQGra6VdRGaZq3PU7tx-dsU31MB6Z0-b6ONCHT7JCB-dZZan3bn-ThiELYj6UQHkWpx_1SgXyOzy47nJJk1aeT4Gz7y2FL2esvC6m/s1600/X51.4.2_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0Ruuon-rajv8x4imHHAP9SvVgWbFqA_lp-NuJ5aTmQGra6VdRGaZq3PU7tx-dsU31MB6Z0-b6ONCHT7JCB-dZZan3bn-ThiELYj6UQHkWpx_1SgXyOzy47nJJk1aeT4Gz7y2FL2esvC6m/s1600/X51.4.2_d.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/86424?img=2">Corset, ca. 1811, MET accession no. X.51.4.2</a><br />This is one of only two corsets that I observed with that interesting button-flap securing the busk.</span></td></tr>
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<ul>
<li><b>What technique should I use for the lacing holes?</b> Spiral lacing, I think. <span style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://thelacedangel.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">The Laced Angel </a>made a </span><a href="https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjreGRo-Y6x_dC13TmMwZ1lWYUdVcmpvcUtmeTFMVHc&usp=sharing#gid=0" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">great spreadsheet</a><span style="background-color: white;"> on </span><a href="http://thelacedangel.blogspot.com/2014/01/romantic-era-corsets.html" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">Romantic Era (1820-35ish) corsets</a>, and her research indicates that spiral-lacing and crisscross-lacing were pretty common at least by those dates. However, spiral-lacing is a bit older technique, and I haven't tried it yet, so I'd like to give it a go. Below you can see an example of both techniques, and Jen of <a href="http://www.festiveattyre.com/" target="_blank">Festive Attyre</a> explains spiral lacing <a href="http://www.festiveattyre.com/p/the-zen-of-spiral-lacing.html" target="_blank">here</a>. </li>
</ul>
<ul><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiucmXjr9RqhtqXPY74g-9Bsp6ALpqvgRX-YLoHjIV71bGcVUNfkxhxBdHOQOW9QL1IUC6X784e61SGmh-z4Wm_SXdHyg335ht6HUGsBEzwVkG9x87C6vBZLk6XJc4k8MdcGsXjsFWZ-hMb/s1600/X51.4.2_B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiucmXjr9RqhtqXPY74g-9Bsp6ALpqvgRX-YLoHjIV71bGcVUNfkxhxBdHOQOW9QL1IUC6X784e61SGmh-z4Wm_SXdHyg335ht6HUGsBEzwVkG9x87C6vBZLk6XJc4k8MdcGsXjsFWZ-hMb/s1600/X51.4.2_B.jpg" width="135" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; line-height: 16.799999237060547px; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/86424?rpp=20&pg=5&ao=on&ft=corset&when=A.D.+1800-1900&img=1">Corset, ca. 1811, MET accession number X.51.4.2</a><br />See how the lacing holes are all off-balance? <br />With holes closer-together at the top and bottom? <br />That indicates spiral lacing. </span></span></td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTWAtzb7FgnSUw7j1OwVnmbzw7_oyIt_-58rDQ3LCXvxq2Sxk_EutgAriXbLGXKwp34LfzWDwwX_5Y6z3Qfmm4oyTWdMlaUQkk3-pWQcaNR1x32wXVG0g0BZPfwEZB7GmEbtk4qHBbkbGQ/s1600/CI42.74.12_B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTWAtzb7FgnSUw7j1OwVnmbzw7_oyIt_-58rDQ3LCXvxq2Sxk_EutgAriXbLGXKwp34LfzWDwwX_5Y6z3Qfmm4oyTWdMlaUQkk3-pWQcaNR1x32wXVG0g0BZPfwEZB7GmEbtk4qHBbkbGQ/s1600/CI42.74.12_B.jpg" width="140" /></a></div>
</td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/86412?rpp=20&pg=5&ao=on&ft=corset&when=A.D.+1800-1900&img=1" style="font-size: x-small;">Corset, ca. 1840s, MET accession no. C.I.42.74.12</a></div>
<span style="font-size: xx-small; text-align: center;">The lacing holes on this example are exactly symmetrical,</span><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">indicating crisscross-lacing (not the technical term.)</span><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">
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<ul>
<li>On the corsets I reviewed I saw a lot of bone eyelets, a good many stitched eyelets, and zero metal eyelets. Metal eyelets were more or less invented<span style="background-color: white;"> in 1827 (ref. <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Corsets-Crinolines-Norah-Waugh/dp/0878305262/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1392321384&sr=8-1&keywords=corsets+and+crinolines" target="_blank"><i>Corsets and Crinolines</i>, by Norah Waugh</a>),</span> so they definitely wouldn't have been around in 1810-15. I don't presently know of a resource for bone eyelets, or I would totally go with those (50x less stitching to be done!). Alas, I'll have to stitch them (<span style="color: orange;">unless any of my kind readers can point me in the direction of a bone eyelet supplier! I have been checking out bone ear gauges, but they don't have a proper lip under the eyelet to keep the fabric tucked under</span>).</li>
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Now I am off to finally cut out and baste up my new stays in final fabric. I leave you with a sketch of <span style="background-color: white;">possible cording patterns (nothing super period-correct, just a product of doodling away while watching <a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1475582/?ref_=fn_al_tt_1" target="_blank">Sherlock</a>, which is awesome.</span>) </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ6mSS8Gpd1lPC5Sc9fZstIi3Ds1BQAy5vsQ8TTT84OiaAV-99smpoyTnvYSncFltB9y87G8n5Aw50RHHJvuJ5yh8-6XgkMCKpWL2XFbYJtlt2i7vQuuy1pmBNhFUGbcOgSnexL9Sl_voy/s1600/2014-02-03+11.44.59.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ6mSS8Gpd1lPC5Sc9fZstIi3Ds1BQAy5vsQ8TTT84OiaAV-99smpoyTnvYSncFltB9y87G8n5Aw50RHHJvuJ5yh8-6XgkMCKpWL2XFbYJtlt2i7vQuuy1pmBNhFUGbcOgSnexL9Sl_voy/s1600/2014-02-03+11.44.59.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5613855761909409996.post-46936328051572524892014-02-06T19:07:00.002-08:002017-03-17T16:17:07.844-07:00J.S. Bernhardt Stays - Part 2 Monday night, I actually managed to modify my mock-up to narrow all the gussets! (Two days of sewing in a row, this is an accomplishment for me. Then it completely stopped for the week, of course.)<br />
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I decided that I really did want to raise the bust gussets by 0.5", so I stitched up the gusset slits by 0.5" (if you peer closely at the picture on the left, below, you can see my puckery seam stitching up the bottom of the gusset.) I also raised made the gusset significantly smaller, taking out a half inch in width and even more than that at the top edge. The rounded "almond" shape helps the gusset form a nice, rounded cup shape when stitched into the stays.</div>
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For the hip gussets, I decided to take 1.25" out of the centre of the big gusset, and 0.75" out of the little gusset. To do that, I just folded them down the center and pinned, and then I stitched out the excess like darts. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUGKgY8k1J7AK0flukqVBM9vRdIlMaz8YwYZbNzWG0mp5Sn01skx-vIopLpaEBLa0HzIDLugyiLaQ8Y1SrYy6J_I4cyGDLskdniZjykIv2ORqTWVLpAQy59vrafrcC31iOl489jRcfOW4B/s1600/2014-02-03+19.58.38.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUGKgY8k1J7AK0flukqVBM9vRdIlMaz8YwYZbNzWG0mp5Sn01skx-vIopLpaEBLa0HzIDLugyiLaQ8Y1SrYy6J_I4cyGDLskdniZjykIv2ORqTWVLpAQy59vrafrcC31iOl489jRcfOW4B/s1600/2014-02-03+19.58.38.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-OA4Irh9Qwm_0pCbgo8x1KPLFlBv2wesCwDJ0K-WVYLQFJ-rpVjD7lc297ufsG9-OvUURx23bjOw79lwElOw6_Fnz6EsnVg3SUg3UmI645KDbKDIksnEn_OWXCVrmON64Qx0tbh6VSTRd/s1600/2014-02-03+20.01.42.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-OA4Irh9Qwm_0pCbgo8x1KPLFlBv2wesCwDJ0K-WVYLQFJ-rpVjD7lc297ufsG9-OvUURx23bjOw79lwElOw6_Fnz6EsnVg3SUg3UmI645KDbKDIksnEn_OWXCVrmON64Qx0tbh6VSTRd/s1600/2014-02-03+20.01.42.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Then, I tried it on again. Below you can see the same pose as last pose, for a fit comparison. My breasts are definitely lifted a little better, and there is no excess fabric in the gussets. The hips fit much more snugly, although I could probably take out a smidge more, as Sabine noted that the corset will stretch a bit after being worn on a warm body - every corset does this, but a corset on the bias probably does this a little bit more. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP7PUGUa_UF9UcwKclVlbjMuYlzY4JQ7x9O00pib0X6fg4pdlReLiJ_0PHyQcDeXGsYO4W__XVIPClT9HrEup5c7I9-4R3JsqPMt9uxbRx32Q119mqLENTX_QQL7cGCRZyOuMcvLQgeoma/s1600/2014-02-03+21.29.26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP7PUGUa_UF9UcwKclVlbjMuYlzY4JQ7x9O00pib0X6fg4pdlReLiJ_0PHyQcDeXGsYO4W__XVIPClT9HrEup5c7I9-4R3JsqPMt9uxbRx32Q119mqLENTX_QQL7cGCRZyOuMcvLQgeoma/s1600/2014-02-03+21.29.26.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The slightly less interesting photo on the left, below, also provides a nice comparison to the front view in the last post. I <i>think</i> my bustline is significantly raised, but I have a hard time seeing it in this picture. Mostly because my waist is short, so I just look a little stumpy overall from this angle. But the other photos clearly indicate an accurate shape, so I am going to keep the bust gussets as they are. </div>
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In the back, you can see I am still getting some unsightly drag lines from the side-back hip gusset, and the centre-back (CB) lacing. I think that lowering the highest point of that gusset may help with this problem - I'm just going to make that revision in my final fabric.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB1vZHejH7STWLkuxSHdNuSDarqfmpO1kN-i6ne8LukMozZLgf6n8GNYldykez9p3TtujOcESiHYn-Kl2hA-OALRJc5l8OsE5W6VaWi9g_A_jVcCc7liGRmpiS5uGbj_te7-1o5IqfY_BD/s1600/2014-02-03+21.30.56.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB1vZHejH7STWLkuxSHdNuSDarqfmpO1kN-i6ne8LukMozZLgf6n8GNYldykez9p3TtujOcESiHYn-Kl2hA-OALRJc5l8OsE5W6VaWi9g_A_jVcCc7liGRmpiS5uGbj_te7-1o5IqfY_BD/s1600/2014-02-03+21.30.56.jpg" width="253" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG-9Uia_ZWNdHK5LnE_9R8wLkIDpDDZFUeKzLRD4Tq67JjLt8mHBBt-hceQfOLVUvSVqLOt5_hRpPR6BiU2h9kU2sU7lsSQtRhplrxzrYVv1DQ720SmJJEYvrar_G7l6Jc6bkSBCoMSqSj/s1600/2014-02-03+21.34.46.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG-9Uia_ZWNdHK5LnE_9R8wLkIDpDDZFUeKzLRD4Tq67JjLt8mHBBt-hceQfOLVUvSVqLOt5_hRpPR6BiU2h9kU2sU7lsSQtRhplrxzrYVv1DQ720SmJJEYvrar_G7l6Jc6bkSBCoMSqSj/s1600/2014-02-03+21.34.46.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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While I was wearing the corset, I blindly stabbed at the bottom hem with a pencil (as you can see from my indiscriminate marks below), and thereby determined some sort of shape to the bottom edge. This is probably the most flexible aspect of the corset pattern - I could make the bottom hem whatever shape I please. The red line indicates which shape I please, this time around. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie33asjMigjGOBeQAQtMjWeXDi2Ubf-fci9qUsRHGuyEUZVR9IaABqoCSm5N6oHMD3r5gve6FkG_bqwQ2rPgv8k1fT0cnxYagjIHU_MGCo-AdkQOApwk0amYnmp5PVnt6l4YLgv2oRrBg0/s1600/2014-02-03+21.45.02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie33asjMigjGOBeQAQtMjWeXDi2Ubf-fci9qUsRHGuyEUZVR9IaABqoCSm5N6oHMD3r5gve6FkG_bqwQ2rPgv8k1fT0cnxYagjIHU_MGCo-AdkQOApwk0amYnmp5PVnt6l4YLgv2oRrBg0/s1600/2014-02-03+21.45.02.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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That done, I just measured out what was to be removed from the corset and chopped it off of my gusset pattern pieces. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikQX4kuhYoERXLPuo8V89avrD7eTVFm4qcD3C5RIawh1G-pcaR6Pwvo16d-LIzapBqCtCRGGh8q8UjtIGORIwW-FhqpGNvIZLl4u99SyqV0DRR9swaqbL0zHsrrqgO7NG_uv8V0zv4X-Cq/s1600/2014-02-03+22.00.01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikQX4kuhYoERXLPuo8V89avrD7eTVFm4qcD3C5RIawh1G-pcaR6Pwvo16d-LIzapBqCtCRGGh8q8UjtIGORIwW-FhqpGNvIZLl4u99SyqV0DRR9swaqbL0zHsrrqgO7NG_uv8V0zv4X-Cq/s1600/2014-02-03+22.00.01.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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My pattern is ready, time to cut fabric, woohoo! </div>
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